A variety of ornamental designs and intricate patterns on textiles amazes with its diversity. Lace appeared in ancient times; its homeland is still not reliably known. Mesh robes with embroidered designs were discovered during excavations on mummies of time Ancient Egypt. However, openwork paintings acquired their familiar appearance only in the 15th century. Then they decorated the clothes of influential and wealthy people.

From Venice

Venetian embroidered and woven patterns quickly became popular. The drawings were connected by thin threads-ligaments; this type was called guipure. Refined Italian masterpieces were in high demand and cost incredible amounts of money. Most had their own names. At the end of the 15th century, large wavy collars decorated with teeth were in fashion. Their floral and plant patterns were fastened with the interweaving of horse and even human hair and connected with the finest threads.

From Flanders

The Flemish Angleterre gained fame thanks to the ban on the import of imported wickerwork into England. Since goods from Flanders were considered to be of higher quality, they were illegally imported and sold under the guise of English. It differed from other types of tulle fabric by the simultaneous weaving of the background and ornament, which was complex and painstaking work. But with the advent of sewing machines, the technology was simplified, however, the quality also suffered, since cotton threads were used to create this type. Such products were no longer as soft and light as man-made ones.

From France

The French rich ordered Italian and Flemish lace for themselves at very high prices. But in the 17th century, the French were able to establish their production, which resulted in incredibly elegant works. Black silk Chantilly became famous, as well as the embroidered “point l’aiguille”. The drawings to create the ornament were made by famous artists of the 18th century.

Application

Lace items now have a decorative value. Sewn and woven fragments are used for collars and cuffs and complement women's underwear. However, dresses, capes, shawls, scarves, gloves or blouses can be made entirely of lace. In addition, tablecloths, napkins, tulle, and all kinds of panels are made using a variety of techniques and organically fit into many interior styles. Lace making as a decorative and applied art captivates needlewomen all over the world. But both hand-made and machine-made fabrics look unusually sophisticated and elegant, and today openwork wardrobe items are again on the crest of a fashionable wave.

Delicate and feminine material is suitable for both sewing a full-fledged wardrobe item, as well as for decorating an existing one. Sometimes in this way you can change the appearance of an already boring thing, revive it and add some zest. This is also a good chance to hide possible imperfections, such as holes or tears.

Secrets and tips

Due to its openwork and sophistication, lace canvas quite capricious in processing. But the end result is worth spending your precious time on. How to properly attach wicker parts to clothing items?

The sewing process requires utmost attention, as well as knowledge of some methods and tricks.

• Before attaching the embroidered piece, wash it as there is a high chance of shrinkage, causing the fabric to tighten. Then you need to iron it, placing it wrong side up.
• You can sew without gathering, by first basting the edge overlapping to the edge of the fabric, and then using a zigzag seam or a simple stitch.
• If a part needs to be gathered, then you need to sew it with wide stitches on a machine, tighten the thread and baste the element to the edge of the fabric, then use a zigzag stitch.
• Bow or regular pleats are suitable for repeating designs. They are pinched at regular intervals, stitched along the edge or in the middle.
• Elements of decorations are sewn not only to the edges of the products, but also in the middle or through equal segments along the entire length.
• To beautifully sew two parts of guipure fabric, you need to cut out the pattern along the contour and apply it to the other side so that the pattern matches. Then baste the outlines and stitch with a fine zigzag.

We use it in clothes

The hem of the dress can be decorated with intricate trim to achieve the required length or give it originality. After washing and ironing the patterned piece, lay out the material and place the lace on top of the bottom of the skirt. Then we baste and stitch with a zigzag. This method is applicable to any fabric, the main thing is to remember to choose threads of the appropriate color.

Jeans can also be altered using unusual pieces, lining, and a sewing machine. The lining is sewn onto the inside of the jeans and helps the pieces stay firmly in place. To place the border at the bottom, attach it from the inside.

By adding ornate trim to a blouse, you can enhance it or even create it. new model, decorating the T-shirt with guipure details and complementing it with graceful sleeves.

So, today lace is gaining momentum in popularity. To keep up with the times, it is absolutely not necessary to purchase ready-made things. You can create your own creation, following your taste and putting a part of yourself into it.

You may also be interested.

There are 4 master classes in this article:

1. Hems on thin fabrics
2. Stitches for sewing silk fabrics
3. Seams on lace polyethylene fabric
4. Devore velvet sewing technology

1. Hems on thin fabrics

There are several ways to hem the edge of a silk, cambric, or chiffon product.

Hem the straight edge with a Moscow seam

Bend and iron the edge of the fabric to the wrong side by 5 mm. Place a straight stitch close to the pressed fold. We select the threads exactly in color.

Iron the hemmed edge. We bend the edge again to the wrong side and sew again, hitting the needle exactly on the first line. Iron the seam again.

Hem the concave edge with a Moscow seam

This method is suitable for armholes, necklines, when the product is made of thin fabric I don’t want to burden it with processing. The samples show an imitation of the front armhole on five types of fabric: cotton gauze, thick suit cotton, linen, cambric and chiffon.

We sew using a special foot, which successfully replaces the hemming “snails” used in production.

First line we lay it using the main foot at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the edge.

Second line we lay it using a special presser foot 0.2 cm from the fold (the fold is along the previously made first line). If necessary, lightly cut the fabric, not reaching the stitching on particularly concave areas. Next, cut the seam allowance close to the second stitch (the pink swatch on the far right).

Let's do WTO(wet heat treatment) of the concave area, pulling it back. Then, fold the edge 0.3 cm and baste it. We do not sweep straight or curved cuts if experience allows.

Third line we sew using a special foot, retreating 0.2 cm from the edge. The second line and basting can then be removed. Steam the edge without stretching it.
The stitching on the armhole in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, made on the wrong side will look sloppy. Therefore, if there are transverse seams, we make the third line along the front side. If there are no transverse seams, we make the third line along the wrong side.

On the front side, the edge turns out beautiful and does not stretch during wear. In the same way, you can hem the convex edge at the hem of a flared skirt.

Hem the edge with a zig-zag seam

This method is usually used to process the edges of a scarf or shawl, but sometimes also the edge of a product (sleeve, hem of a skirt). We bend and iron the edge of the fabric to the wrong side by 7-10 mm. We sew a tight zigzag around the fold.

Iron the stitched edge. Using sharp-tipped scissors, trim the seam allowance as close to the stitching as possible without damaging the thread.

The result is a smooth, beautifully finished edge. This seam can be used to hem silk clothes, the hem of a light summer dress, flounces on thin and delicate fabrics, scarves and shawls. On sharp corners it is impossible to make such a stitch without interrupting the seam. Therefore, we leave long threads at the ends of the stitch, after hemming all the seams, we pull the threads into the needle and tuck them into the seam.



The article was prepared based on materials from the forum topics Album Milo, Album March 8. We thank the authors for the photographic materials and detailed MKs.

2. Stitches for sewing silk fabrics

Thin silks and transparent silk chiffons are sewn both by hand and on a sewing machine. Choose a very thin and sharp needle No. 60-70. The stitch length of a machine stitch should not exceed 2 mm, otherwise the seam will be unsightly.

Moscow seam

Above we talk in detail about processing the edge of the product using the Moscow seam. On silk fabrics, a problem can occur: the foot chews the material. To prevent this from happening, we use thin newsprint, which can be easily removed after the seam is stitched. This technique is especially effective on the corners of the part.

French seam

The second name for the French seam is double turnout. It looks elegant and does not spoil appearance products, while overlocking thin and transparent silks looks rough.

We sew the parts along the front side, trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm.

Turn the seam inside out, iron it and stitch it, 0.6 cm from the edge.
The cut will remain sealed in the seam - it will look neat on the front and back sides of the product.
Tip: you can lightly wet the edge of the cut with water, passing it between wet fingers, then the ruffled threads of the fabric will not stick out from the seam on the front side of the product.

We direct the allowances of the two French seams at the intersection in different directions.

If a silk product does not have sleeves, first we process the armhole sections and only then sew the side sections with a French seam. This sequence will allow you to complete all seams cleanly and beautifully.

Covering seam

Place the pieces right sides together and stitch along the marked seam line. Iron the seam allowances to one side.

We cut off the bottom allowance by 2/3 of the entire allowance. We bend the upper allowance and, wrapping it around the lower one, sew it. For a smoother edge, you can sew a guide line along the top seam allowance.

With this type of sewing seam, there is no stitching on the front side of the product, as with the usual sewing seam.

Processing armholes on silk in a product with a sleeve

Sewing a sleeve into an armhole using a French seam is sometimes difficult and requires experience. Using an elastic soft mesh, you can trim the armhole cut with piping when the sleeve is already sewn in. Finishing a seam with a mesh is more aesthetically pleasing than overlocking and will not spoil the appearance of even a transparent product.

Edging the edge of a silk product

There are a lot of varieties of silk - they differ in density, transparency, shine, the way the thread is twisted and weaved in the fabric. Choose the treatment that is most suitable for this type of silk
The simplest and most accessible is shown in the example of a sleeve cut.

We place the binding cut on the bias at the bottom of the cut. We attach, passing the corner very close to the cut. We bend the seam allowance with tape, baste, iron and attach the edging.

There are many ways to sew silk fabrics. Each time, carefully choose one or another type of processing, having first tried it on a flap.

The article was prepared based on materials provided by lily-56, we thank the author for the detailed MK.

3. Seams on lace polyethylene fabric

Thin polyethylene lace fabric is used, as a rule, as the top layer of elegant clothing. On the Etro-inspired dress, viscose devoré jersey is chosen as a companion. In the process of sewing parts in our example, three types of seams are used: connecting lace to lace, to knitwear, and edge processing. The flesh-colored elastic lining is connected to the dress only along the neckline. It serves as the background in all photographs given in the article.

French seam on lace fabric

Before starting work, put on a universal needle No. 80 and adjust the tension of the threads by stitching the sample at the cut edge. The seam should not pull the two layers of stitched lace together.

The French seam is described in detail above in the article Seams for sewing silk fabrics.
1. Sew two layers of lace fabric from the front side.
2. Cut the allowance close to the stitching.
3. Turn the seam inside out and sew 0.5-0.7 cm from the previous seam.

Iron the seams.

Combination of lace and knitted fabrics

Important! Making a seam according to the algorithm below is only possible on polyethylene lace.
Sew the lace detail along the outline of the pattern. Make sure that the stitching does not tighten the fabric.

Trim the seam allowance to a width of 0.8 cm from the stitching.

We melt the edge of the allowance with a lighter or over a candle. Be sure to try it on an unnecessary scrap to adjust the distance from the cut of the fabric to the fire.

According to the pattern, we adjust the allowance of the knitwear part.

We place the lace detail on the knitted one. We combine the line on the lace with the chalk line on the knitwear, fastening the layers with pins.

We sew the details, entering the needle exactly into the stitch on the lace. Pay attention to the translucent allowance of the knitted part, we will work with it further.

We turn the allowance on the knitted part so that it is not visible from the front side. We use a zigzag seam along the previously laid straight lines. We trim the knitted seam allowance from the wrong side without damaging the stitching.
Important! We select the stitch width and length of the zigzag stitch experimentally specifically for your lace, sewing samples.

Front view of several parts stitched using the seams described above.

Processing the open cut of lace fabric

This method is used to process the edge, it can be the bottom of the dress and the flounce of the sleeve. After processing, the edge becomes similar to the edge of fabric. We sew the part, stepping back from the edge by the width of the allowance, making sure that the stitching does not tighten the fabric. Then we go along the same line again with a zigzag stitch and trim the seam allowance close to the line.

Melt the cut.


The article was prepared specifically for the Season website. We thank the author of MK lily-56 for the photo of the process.

4. Devore velvet sewing technology

Modern fabric production technologies make working with them much easier. Chiffon-based velvet is now produced with such a thread composition that it can be decated in any way and ironed with steam on the reverse side.
If you have antique “pan-velvet” in your supplies, ironing with steam is possible only on the wrong side on a backing made of velvet, cardstock or terry towel.
Be sure to check on the scrap how your fabric behaves during WTO before you start working with it.

In our example, we used devoré velvet from the project “Velvet dress based on Valentino.”

Fabric composition: 50% natural silk, 50% viscose. The fabric is decated and then processed using the sizing method, which is described in detail in the article. The photo shows the fabric after decating and processing. It has not lost its plasticity, but has acquired the necessary stability, which makes cutting much easier.

Duplication of devore velvet parts

Duplicating velvet parts with adhesive materials is undesirable. One of the ways is duplication with thin knitwear. We cut out the parts that we duplicate from knitwear, fold the velvet and knitted parts, trace the pattern with chalk and baste.

We sew knitwear and velvet parts to the width of the allowance. Cut close to the stitching and overcast the edges. Then we work with each duplicated part as if it were a single-layer one.

We sew and iron the details of the product.

Finishing the edge with organza ribbon

A straight cut of velvet can be treated with a finished organza ribbon 1 cm wide. We attach the ribbon to the front side, aligning the edge of the ribbon and the cut. Sew along the edge of the tape located further from the cut. Trim the fabric to half the width of the tape.

We bend the tape to the wrong side and baste or pin it with pins. We attach the tape along the second side.

Processing the neckline and armholes with bias tape

Sew the finished bias tape to the neckline without bending anything on the tape. We sew, stepping back from the edge by the width of one folded edge of the binding.

Fold the binding to the right side and sew the seam to the edge, simultaneously sewing all the allowances.

We lay the second line along the duplicate layer. If it is not there, sew the second side of the binding to the main part.

Neckline finished with bias tape.

Internal sections

A cut of devoré velvet is subject to severe fraying. If overcast, it looks unattractive due to the unevenness of the fabric in thickness. Therefore, it is best to use a linen seam or, as it is also called, a French seam. We reinforce the dart with organza ribbon, in this case it can be overlocked with an overlocker.



We thank the author of the lily-56 project for the MK and the choice of fabric in our store.

Openwork sewing and lace inserts are exquisite products that attract admiring glances. Airy blouses, Wedding Dresses, underwear and even shorts with lace trim look unusual and interesting. Despite its originality, openwork and lace sewing are materials that pose many problems when working with them. People even think about how to sew lace with their own hands and not spoil the product. experienced needlewomen. In this article we will look at this issue in detail.

Before you start sewing, read these simple guidelines. They will help you make the sewing process easier and keep the fabric in better condition:

1. Rinse the lace fabric in hot water - this will help prevent the lace trim from shrinking after washing.
2. Sew lace fabrics to a dress or other garment using zigzag stitches. This will help avoid strong tension and damage to the fabric during wear.
3. Hand wash lace fabric. After rinsing, try not to wring out, but dry in a more gentle way. Place the fabric on a soft, flat surface, wrong side up. Allow the material to dry for 10-15 minutes. After this, gently iron the fabric. This is a simple trick that will help you save openwork fabric beautiful and embossed.
4. Before, how to sew lace yourself, carefully consider the choice of threads. They should be the same shade as the lace trim. If you plan to use the lining sewing method, match the thread to the color of the garment.
5. An important point is the amount of fabric that will be used for sewing. If you are sewing a lace insert to the hem of a dress, lay the item on the floor and then carefully measure the bottom line. Multiply the resulting number by 2, then add another 3 centimeters to the seams that are located on the right and left sides. The resulting number indicates the amount of fabric you have to buy.

How to sew lace with your own hands: basic tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

• Needles;
• Threads matched to the color of clothing or lace;
• Lace fabric;
• Tailor's scissors (you can also use regular scissors).

Sewing lace by hand is quite a labor-intensive process, so along with other tools you will need a little patience.

How to sew lace by hand: step-by-step instructions

Question, how to sew lace with your own hands, occurs in cases where the tissue is very thin and delicate. Any sudden movement made by a sewing machine or seamstress can cause the lace to tear and not look attractive enough. Below we will tell you how to sew lace by hand and maintain the attractiveness of the product:

1. Take the garment you want to sew on and place it right side up. Apply the trim to the selected area, aligning it with the seam line.
2. Finish the seam allowance - carefully trim this section of fabric to 5mm.
3. Roll the seam allowance into a tube. Thread the needle and start sewing. Sew over the edge, carefully securing the lace to the surface of the garment.
4. Trim the basting.

If you need to join the lace to a previously finished edge, place the trim on the fabric and join the edges of the lace trim and the fabric. Sew the sections together using small stitches with a small gap between them.

How to sew lace yourself with bow folds

To do this you will need a piece of fabric with a repeating pattern. Fold the fabric, creating counter or regular gaps, and then secure with neat stitches, basting them to the edge of the product.

Lace can be sewn along the yoke line. Please note that this must be done at regular intervals. You can choose the type of seam that is convenient for you - a classic stitch or a line drawn in the form of a zigzag.

To sew individual lace elements to each other, place them next to each other, mark the seam line and leave a small margin so that decorative elements slightly overlapped each other. After this, secure the pieces of fabric with pins and sew with a zigzag stitch. A regular seam will turn out unsightly and will seem to “cut” the ornament, so it is not recommended to use it.

Master class: How to sew lace correctly

Delicate cambric or thin knitwear and lace stitching (inserts) are a classic combination for models in lingerie or romantic style. If the longitudinal edges of the lace stitching are not edged, and there are fabric allowances along them, then simply iron these allowances to the wrong side and stitch the lace stitching as described below. Then trim the lace allowances along with the stitching seam allowances.

First preparation
Cut out the pattern pieces from fabric with seam and hem allowances. Transfer the seam lines, bottom lines, all marking lines and marks, including the direction line of the grain thread, to the wrong sides of the cut pieces.
Important: to transfer markings to cut details made of white or transparent fabric, do not use colored copy paper - the marking lines will show through from the front side of the dress. In addition, not all fabrics will be able to completely remove color marks from transfer paper. Use carbon paper white and a copy wheel with a smooth edge without teeth (Prym) - the marking lines will be solid, clearly visible, and light gray in color.

Transfer the seam lines for lace stitching to the right sides of the cut pieces by hand using large running stitches.

STEP 1
Place the lace stitching on the front side of the cut piece between the lines of the stitching seams, pin and stitch to the edge. Cut the fabric under the lace between the seams along the middle line (see photo).

STEP 2
Iron the fabric under the lace up/down. On the front side of the dress, sew a tight, narrow zigzag stitch over the lace stitching seams. On the wrong side of the dress, carefully trim off the excess fabric close to the zigzag stitches (see photo).

STEP 3
If, at the same time as the lace stitching, you need to stitch the hem allowance on the bottom and trim the edges of the cut, then first stitch the lace as described in step 1 and cut the fabric lying under the lace. Then press the top seam allowance upward. Turn the hem allowance to the right side of the dress and stitch along the edge of the slit from the fold to the bottom seam of the lace stitching (see photo).

STEP 4
On the seam allowance, make a bias cut at the bottom seam, attaching the lace stitch to the last stitch of the vertical seam (see photo).

STEP 5
Turn the hem over to the wrong side and pin exactly above the bottom seam of the lace stitching. Iron it. On the front side of the dress, place a dense, narrow zigzag stitch over the lace stitching seams (see photo). Carefully trim away excess fabric close to the zigzag stitches. Along the edges of the cut and the ends of the lace stitching, make a narrow hem and stitch it into the edge.

You can use lace to make an evening dress or everyday dress, skirt, top, blouse or trousers. Moreover, the item can be either completely lace or combined with other material. And, of course, you can decorate individual elements of clothing with lace (collars, cuffs, bottom of the dress) or make spectacular appliques from it.

1. You can connect lace parts using sewing machine or on an overlocker (on the website you can read,). The choice depends on the density of the material and the ornament on it.

2. The seam allowances can be overcast using an overlocker or processed using silk bias binding.

3. If you are sewing a dress, tight top or skirt, keep in mind: it is easiest to fit a product made of knitted lace.

4. If you want the product to be opaque, choose a suitable lining. For example, for knitted lace, a knitted lining is suitable, preferably made from natural fibers. If you want the lace design to be more visible, choose a lining that is a different tone than the lace (darker, lighter, or contrasting color).

5. Elastic lace is very stretchy, so it is better to reinforce the shoulder seams by sewing on cotton bias tape.

6. It is better to choose a model with a minimum number of seams, so as not to cut the lace and spoil it beautiful pattern. Darts are not made on lace; it is better to transfer them, for example, to the side seam (to the waist line).

7. Lace can be used to duplicate both the entire product and its individual parts. You can choose silk, satin, satin or light wool as the base fabric. It is necessary to cut out the parts from the main fabric and from the lace, and baste the lace parts along the contour onto the parts from the main material. Then you can sew the product as a single layer.

8. If the lace has scallops along the edges, they can be used to decorate the bottom of the product, sleeves and neckline. In this case, it is necessary to position the pattern in such a way that the bottom of the dress, skirt or top is cut out without allowances along the scallops. This option will not only look beautiful, but will also make it easier to process the product - you won’t have to hem the bottom or process the neckline.

9. If you want to decorate a dress or other item with lace applique, simply secure the lace to the fabric using paper tape. It is easily pierced with a needle, leaves no marks and is easily removed from the material (if the fabric on which you plan to make an applique is very delicate, try doing this operation on an unnecessary piece). Next, simply stitch the lace with a zigzag and carefully remove the applique stabilizer from the wrong side.

10. Iron the lace very carefully, at low temperature. It's better to try it on a small unnecessary piece first. A multifunctional ironing pad can be purchased at the Burda store.

You can sew a variety of models from lace fabric.