Types of cutting of precious stones. How to highlight the beauty of a gem? Types of gemstone cutting The most common types of stone cutting
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The most beautiful gemstone in its natural form is rough and unattractive. Even the most perfect creations of nature - pearls - undergo pre-sale processing.
There are many various techniques cuts precious stones. Either method is designed to make the stone more attractive: be it cutting for harder rocks (diamond), or regular polishing for less hard rocks (turquoise).
Stone processing workshop and cut stones, late 20th century, USSR
Faceted natural topaz (cut blue and wine topaz)
Faceted natural aquamarines
Types of cut: 1 - polished (stepped emerald); 2 - wedge; 3 - rose; 4-diamond; 5 - combined; 6 - fantasy; 7 - cabochon
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Crystals and minerals have healing and magical properties not only due to their visible and invisible radiation, their color, but also the existence of the effect of forms.
Due to the shape effect, the same crystal, but with a different cut, exhibits different physical and bioenergetic properties.
Therefore, amulets carved, for example, from carnelian, but of different shapes (circle, cross, triangle, etc.) carry different meanings.
So, the cross protects, the triangle charges, the circle aligns the YIN-YANG energies.
The mystics of antiquity came closest to understanding the stone, attaching great importance to the shape and cut of stones, and not to their color.
From numerous observations, they developed a magical system of connecting the shape of crystals with the elements and numbers.
Thus, Plato, as well as the Pythagoreans, carefully studied the philosophical, mathematical and magical aspects of regular convex polyhedra. They are still called Platonic solids to this day.
There are five such regular convex polyhedra:
tetrahedron (all faces are regular triangles and from each vertex there are exactly three edges),
hexahedron (tetrahedron - cube),
octahedron (octahedron),
dodecahedron (dodecahedron) and
Icosahedron (twenty-hedron).
Each of these polyhedra corresponds to a specific element:
tetrahedron - FIRE,
cube - EARTH,
octahedron - AIR,
icosahedron - WATER,
dodecahedron - UNIVERSE.
The color and cut of a stone orient its properties in a certain way, revealing hidden astral energy corresponding to a planet or constellation.
That is why priests and magicians in ancient times kept secret the cut shapes corresponding to each type of mineral.
By cutting, it is possible to increase the play of the stone, its brilliance and magical properties. A “shape effect” occurs.
From an occult point of view, a crystal has vertices that emit energy and centers of faces that absorb energy.
Thus, a hexahedron (cube) has 8 vertices emitting energy and six faces in which energy is absorbed. Since there are more emitting points than absorbing ones, the cube belongs to the male Yang principle.
The octahedron has six points-vertices of radiation and eight points-centers of absorption faces. Therefore, the octahedron absorbs more energy than it emits, so it belongs to the feminine principle YIN.
The tetrahedron has four vertices and four faces, which leads to the equality of YIN-YANG.
The icosahedron has 12 vertices and 20 faces, shaped like regular triangles, so it expresses the YIN principle.
The dodecahedron has 20 vertices and 12 faces, and therefore it expresses the Yang principle. Its 12 faces are shaped like regular pentagons. The dodecahedron is shaped like a soccer ball.
It should be noted that emissive centers can be placed in the centers of the faces, and absorption centers - in the vertices. Obviously, this will lead to an inversion of relationships (YIN-YANG), which once again confirms the unity of these two principles.
In order for the crystalline properties of a gem to fully manifest itself, it must be faceted.
Any cut is good in its own way.
A smaller number of edges and a pointed tip indicate the concentration of the stone’s energy on one target.
The large number of facets and rounded top mean that the influence of the stone is multifaceted and affects many aspects of life.
In nature, many types of stones have excellent brilliance and amazing facets, but very rarely the inner beauty of a stone can be fully revealed without the intervention of a master lapidary. Strengthening the natural charm of jewelry stones, the natural edges of which are rarely perfect, is facilitated by giving them a certain shape.
HISTORY OF STONE CUT
In ancient times, there was almost no attempt to give stones any specific shape; mainly, the stones were simply polished, partially revealing only their color capabilities.
Gradually, the stones began to be polished into a rounded shape, known as a cabochon. The word "cabochon" comes from a French word, which in turn was derived from the Latin "cabo" - head.
Even with this in a simple way processing, such as grinding, several types of cabochon shapes can be distinguished: double (convex), simple and double (convex-concave).
This most ancient cutting method is still used in the preparation of stones for jewelry.
In modern jewelry, cabochon-cut stones are used in cases where the jewelry artist is trying to show the color power of the stone.
But still, with this method of cutting, the stone remains “dead”, its inner life and “game” remain undisclosed.
Until the 16th century, only very simple and regular forms of diamond cutting were created - the diamond tip and the diamond table.
Gradually, a more complex cut with symmetrically located edges appeared - the rose cut. It consists of a hemisphere with 24 regularly spaced triangular faces applied to the last one and a flat base. Nowadays only the smallest diamonds are cut into roses.
For stones with an elongated, asymmetrical shape, the briolette shape is used - triangular edges are applied to the teardrop shape over the entire surface, as in the rose cut.
But the main form of cutting, on which a large number of varieties of gemstone processing are based, has become the diamond cut.
For many centuries it was believed that it was first used in the 17th century by the Venetian lapidary Vincenzo Peruzzi. But this fact is not immutable.
It is only obvious that the emergence of the diamond cutting method is associated with the improvement of the primitive table cutting method by sawing off the corners.
The diamond cut was born through numerous trials and errors by lapidaries, since in order to obtain the maximum effect it was necessary to maintain certain proportions in the stone. Compliance with these proportions and strict order in the arrangement of the edges it is necessary to ensure that the stream of light entering the stone is refracted and emits as many rays as possible, creating a rainbow effect.
CUT
Cutting is the processing of precious stones to give them a certain shape and maximize their play and brilliance.
The shape of the cut is by no means random. The stone must be cut so that most of the rays entering it do not pass through, but return back, refracted in the faces.
In a cut stone they are distinguished
A girdle is the edge or tip of a stone that forms its perimeter. This is the end where the upper and lower parts of the stone meet, that is, in fact, a kind of dividing line. This is where the frame is usually fixed.
The crown is the top part of the stone located above the girdle.
The pavilion is the lower part of the stone, in other words, that part of the stone that is located below the girdle down to its lowest point.
The caleta is the lowest point of the stone. When examining a number of stones, you may not see it, which probably indicates possible marriage, but when it comes to colored stones, the question may arise about the design of the cut.
THERE ARE THREE TYPES OF CUT: cabochon, faceted, mixed.
The cut awakens the stone to active action.
A cut is like an order to a stone to act in a certain way, depending on the shape of the cut.
CABOCHON
Cabochon is the most ancient type of cut - a convex shape without edges. This form allows the stone to accumulate energy and transfer it to the owner.
In this case, the stone, as it were, carries out a certain order; when cut into a cabochon, it chooses how to act.
The outer side of the cut is a symbol of the action of the stone itself, the inner side is what will happen to the owner.
INFLUENCE
The radiation of a stone can be described as a field. This field can be directed, but the beam will be scattered.
Not very convenient for an instant attack, but suitable for changing any structure or leisurely work, such as meditation, self-healing, etc.
Cabochons “soften” those who, for some reason, are harsh and unbalanced or mired in internal contradictions. The absence of directional angles prevents the energy from being directed unconsciously. The cabochon stabilizes, calms, and concentrates strength.
Oval shape - allows you to blend in astral bodies owner and stone and exchange energy. Mainly affects the psyche, behavior, etc.
The round shape strengthens the stone itself, allowing it to condense energy in a better way. Serves mainly to enhance health.
The rarest form of cabochon is the lentil or drop. With this form, communication between man and stone occurs on equal terms. They exchange energy but do not merge bodies. Also, such a stone reacts to the thoughts of the owner. If a person is planning to do something from the area of influence of the stone, it will open up an energy flow for him to recharge. At other times it simply affects how you feel.
There are THREE TYPES of cabochon: DOUBLE CONVEX, SIMPLE, DOUBLE CONVEX-CONCAVE.
SIMPLE - bottom surface is flat. Most often, cabochons have a flat bottom and a rounded top. This type of cut reveals the magical power of the stone.
DOUBLE CONVEX - both the top and bottom surfaces are curved.
DOUBLE CONVEX-CONCAVE - lens effect Hollow cabochons are made when they want to weaken the intensity of the color. This form is used almost exclusively for the dark red almandine, or carbuncle, garnet, which appears almost black without the cavity.
CABACHONS ACCORDING TO THE ELEMENTS OF THE ZODIAC SIGNS
The element of Fire (YIN-YANG equality, i.e. absorbing-emitting properties) also includes round or oval cabochons with an untreated hidden part of the stone.
The element of Earth (the male principle of Yang, i.e. radiating) corresponds to an oval cabochon with a processed hidden part.
The elements of Water (expresses the YIN principle, i.e. absorbing.) corresponds to a round cabochon, “pyramid-shaped”, with a processed hidden rounded part.
Elements Air (equality YIN-YANG i.e. absorbing-emitting properties) - cabochon with unprocessed hidden part
FACET CUT - a shape formed by flat polygons.
In a facet cut, the entire stone is cut into flat faces.
This type of cut reveals the magical power of the stone and corresponds to the element of Fire (YIN-YANG equality).
Facet cutting has several varieties:
FACET cutting is used mainly for transparent stones. Most varieties of faceted cuts come in TWO MAIN FORMS - DIAMOND AND STEP.
DIAMOND CUT
INFLUENCE
The diamond cut harmonizes the person wearing this stone, as well as, and primarily affects the stone, which becomes more receptive to incoming information, which is very convenient to use in magic.
TYPES OF DIAMOND CUT
FULL DIAMOND
A full brilliant cut has at least 32 facets and plates at the top and at least 24 facets at the bottom. It is designed specifically for diamond, which is why it is also called diamond cut.
Usually, diamonds generally mean cut diamonds.
But still, diamonds, in the strict sense of the word, are diamonds that have a brilliant cut. It is believed that this cut most fully reveals the play and brilliance of the stone. It consists of two multifaceted pyramids - full and truncated, folded at the bases; the crown and pavilion faces are arranged in several rows; a three-row arrangement of faces is common (the so-called triple brilliant cut). The most commonly used types of diamond cuts are: full - 57 facets and simplified - 17 facets (for very small diamonds).
Subsequently, in order to retain more weight and volume of the stone, which was lost as a result of the diamond cut, new modified forms were created on the basis of the latter: “Care's Star”, the so-called “Old American Diamond”, English diamond, “Jubilee” cut and so on.
For stones with asymmetrical shapes, special types of diamond cuts were created, in which the arrangement of the faces is normal, but they are all distorted. Characteristic of these types of cuts are the “marquise” (or “shuttle”) and “pandelok” (or teardrop-shaped) shapes.
EIGHT CUT
The figure-eight cut has, in addition to the platform, 8 facets in the upper and lower parts. It is used for the smallest diamonds, for which full cutting is either impossible or unprofitable. For one carat (200 mg) there are 300, and sometimes 500 pieces of these “eights”.
ROSE
Rose is a facet cut without platform and lower part. There are six or seven variants of it, depending on the number and location of the facets (Dutch, half-Dutch, cross, briolette, etc.).
Currently, diamonds ranging in size from 1 to 2 carats are cut in the form of a “rose” or “rosetta”. Its upper part consists of 24 faces. This shape on top somewhat resembles a rosebud in its appearance, which explains its very name.
Rose cut diamonds are typically 1/5 the cost of brilliant cut diamonds for the same weight and clarity. The classic diamond shapes of brilliants and roses can only be obtained on sufficiently large crystals.
A stone cut with a rose is called a diamond, not a diamond.
Due to poor performance, it is now almost never used.
STEP CUT
The step cut (ladder cut) is a simple type of facet cut used primarily for colored gemstones. Most facets have parallel edges; the steepness of the facets increases towards the girdle (the rim separating the upper and lower parts of the stone). The number of facets in the lower part is usually greater than in the upper part. This type of cut emphasizes the internal color of the stone.
INFLUENCE - many facets allow you to receive/emit a larger volume of information, a fairly extensive set of possibilities when creating directed flows, complex multivariate programs.
TABLE CUT
The “platform” or “table” cut is the first simplest step cut. To increase the platform (tablet), the upper part of the stone is made flat. As a rule, it is used for men's rings.
EMERALD CUT
Emerald cut is a step cut with an octagonal shape of the stone. Used mainly for emerald. The Ural emerald cut is considered internationally recognized.
STAIRWAY
The step (ladder) cut is a simple type of facet cut used primarily for colored stones. Most of the facets have parallel edges; the steepness of the facets increases towards the girdle. The number of facets at the bottom is usually greater than at the top.
WEDGE
Wedge cut (wedge cut) is a type of step cut. Each facet is divided into four wedges.
CEYLON
The Ceylon cut makes it possible to better preserve the weight of the stone. For this purpose, many small facets are applied to it. This cut is not always symmetrical, and therefore a stone cut this way is often recut.
BAGUETTE
Smooth grinding can be smooth (flat) or rounded, convex (vaulted). In mixed grinding (cutting), two types of grinding are combined: the upper part is smooth, the lower part is faceted, or vice versa.
MIXED CUT CUT
Mixed - the ancient step cut is improved by the brilliant cut. As a rule, the crown is diamond-cut, the pavilion is steps, or vice versa, the crown is flat, the pavilion is faceted or stepped.
IMPACT - similar to diamond cut, but allows more room for creativity. It is possible to find completely radical combinations that individualize the stone and, accordingly, help to reveal your individuality when working.
CUT BY ELEMENTS OF SIGNS
For all female signs, preference in processing (if possible) is given to cabochon.
The edge reveals masculine qualities, it presupposes interaction, activity, awakens certain forces, the stone becomes flashy, it is forced to work.
FIRE - faceted or stepped cut, round or oval cabochon with an untreated hidden part of the stone.
EARTH - oval cabochon (except Virgo) with a processed hidden part.
AIR - rose or trapezoid cut, cabochon with untreated hidden part.
WATER - round cabochon with a “pyramid” shape with a processed hidden rounded part.
In general, to manifest masculine energies (masculine signs, if you have good planets there by status), you need to set stones in masculine metals: gold, iron, tungsten, tin and its alloys, etc.
For manifestation feminine energies It is necessary to set stones in female metals: silver, titanium, lead, bismuth, copper.
Neutral metals: aluminum (Mercury), iridium (Uranium).
LIMITATIONS AND INDICATIONS RELATED TO STONE CUT
Some stones can be cut as desired, but some have restrictions.
Some can only be made as cabochons, while others can only be faceted.
Some stones cannot be cut at all, especially for magical purposes.
Once cut, some stones lose their magical powers.
Such stones include: labradorite, bloodstone (for magic, and cut for wearing), obsidian, selenite, cacholong, chrysoprase (faceted chrysoprase does not bring happiness), tourmaline (for magical and tantric purposes) and other stones of the Moon and Venus.
The stones are opaque, variegated, and with rare exceptions, it is better to make them in cabochons. This is how all chalcedony, agates, etc. should be processed. Chrysoprase is made into a cabochon.
Peridots are made into cabochons and only the noble green olivine chrysolite is cut.
Some stones cannot be made into cabochons: emerald, sapphire, zircon (hyacinth), spinel (lal), rubillite, diamond. Uncut diamonds eventually become harmful. It is better to cut aquamarine; uncut it becomes uncontrollable.
Changeable stones - alexandrite, ruby - they can be used either way, depending on the purpose.
In essence, YIN stones should be cabochons, and YANG stones should be faceted.
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In addition to the most common classic round shape, cut shapes called fancy (“marquise”, “princess”, “oval”, “pear”, “emerald”, “heart”, “baguette”) are also popular, each of which has a different She is beautiful in her own way and looks great in jewelry.
The use of original forms expands the creative horizons of jewelry, allowing you to create new jewelry with inserts that correspond to modern fashion trends. Our managers are ready to advise you on all questions related to the shape of cubic zirconium by calling the indicated numbers .
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PROCESSING Jewelry stones
Jewelry stones in nature are often found in the form of beautiful crystals and amazingly beautiful specimens, distinguished by their strong shine and natural play of light. However, already in ancient times, man learned to enhance the beauty, brilliance and radiance of stones through their additional processing. Colored stones were processed already in the 4th millennium BC. e. in Ancient Babylon. Jewelry made of lapis lazuli, jasper, turquoise and other stones in the form of polished and rounded plates were found during excavations of ancient burials. One of the most ancient types of stone processing is the art of carving on semi-precious stones, or glyptic. It is not so much the stone itself that is valued, but the skill of its processing. The carved stone is called gems. Around 1600, in Paris, it was possible to carry out a complete brilliant cut of a diamond and a diamond was obtained (from the French “brieux” - to sparkle, sparkle); This type of cut has been preserved in its essential features to this day.
The shape of diamonds can be different: most often round, but for large crystals the following shapes are used: “marquise”, “pear”, oval, baguette, emerald, etc. When cutting precious stones, the optimal angles of the pavilion edges are of decisive importance, since the beam of rays The light entering the stone through the crown should “reflect from the edges of the bottom and exit through the edges of the top into the air.” The more rays of light come out of the stone, the better the stone shines and sparkles. If the edges of the pavilion are not inclined at optimal angles, then most of the rays will pass through the stone without being reflected from the lower edges, the shine of the stone will be dull and the color will be pale. The refractive index of different stones is different, so each stone has its own critical angles of inclination of the bottom faces. Smooth polishing of gems is another type of processing, known since ancient times. It is chosen not only for translucent and opaque stones, but also for transparent ones (rubies, emeralds, urmalines, etc.), if they contain many inclusions. With smooth processing, the stone is not covered with edges, but is only given a convex shape. This type of grinding also includes cabochons. Round cabochon It has correct form, if its height approximately corresponds to the radius of the base circle. If it is greater than this radius, they speak of a high cabochon; if it is less, they speak of a flat (low) cabochon. Main types of cuts
Shapes given to stone during processing
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· Chess The checkerboard cut is commonly used for citrine, garnet, topaz, amethyst and semi-precious stones. |
Only masters of jewelry will see the future brilliance and beauty in a cloudy piece of mineral just mined in a mine. In order to present its splendor, to reveal its beauty, the gemstone is cut. There are more than 250 types of cuts; the type is chosen based on the size of the mineral, its purity (the presence of inclusions and defects) and the shape of the jewelry itself that the stone will be crowned with. Now we will take a closer look at the main (classical) types of wedge cuts.
The circle, or classic diamond cut, is perhaps the most common of all those existing today. The round cut is the default cut for diamonds; it is often used for scatterings of identical small stones on one piece of jewelry. It is symmetrical, polishes well and has maximum light transmittance - that is, it allows the stone to shine especially brightly in the light. There are many variations of the round cut, but the classic brilliant cut has 57 facets.
Oval, a type of round cut, has recently been the most popular shape for center stones on engagement rings. The oval cut, in contrast to the round one, is relatively young - if the “round” cut has been cut since the end of the 17th century, the “oval” appeared only in the 60s of the 20th century. Among other varieties of round cuts, one can distinguish a rose, in which the stone does not have an upper platform, but has a top of converging edges, as well as two three-dimensional shapes - a ball and a bead. They differ in that the ball has triangular faces, while the bead has quadrangular faces.
The pear cut has a more complex shape than the circle. It resembles less a pear than a drop - in classic version with a large platform on top, which allows light to play on the edges of the stone: on one side the stone is rounded, on the other it ends in a spike. With their sharp corners facing up, “pears” are hung on necklaces, earrings, and worn as pendants. In addition to the classic pear-shaped shape with a platform, similar types of cuts include briolette and drop. The teardrop cut has fewer facets and those adjacent to the sharp tenon are more elongated than the rest.
The marquise cut gives the gemstone a grain shape with two pointed corners. If the stone is central to the decoration, it is placed vertically, and several marquises can be placed horizontally next to each other, or form simple ornaments. Typically, the length of a stone cut in this way is approximately twice its width, allowing it to be used in long pieces of jewelry. airy design: earrings, pendants, bracelets... A variation of the “marquise” is the “shuttle” cut - it has slightly fewer edges and a narrower top area, but the shape is so similar that it is easy to confuse them.
And finally, the heart cut also has two corners, but only one of them is convex. The heart shape embodied in the gemstone is particularly popular as a symbol of love and passion. The heart is one of the most complex and expensive types of cutting, but it allows you to mask the defects of the stone. The length and width of the classic “heart” should be the same, but there are exceptions - if the stone comes across a particularly long one.
A minimum number of angles, an abundance of facets and varying degrees of roundness are the characteristic features of most wedge-shaped cuts.
For transparent, translucent precious and semi-precious stones A beveled cut is used. His distinctive feature is the application of flat edges of geometric shapes to the surface of the stone being processed.
In modern jewelry art There are many types of beveled (or faceted) cuts. Among them: wedge. This type of cut is characterized by maximum reflection of light from the surface of the stone being processed. Examples include round brilliant, oval and marquise cuts. This type of cut is used for processing diamonds, zircon, rock crystal, tourmaline, emerald, topaz and ruby.
stepped. With the help of this type of facet cutting, the master strives to emphasize the inner beauty of the stone. Examples include the Baguette, Emerald, and Acheron cuts. When choosing the cutting height of a stone, its color is taken into account. Light stones are made taller, and dark stones are made smaller. Emerald, beryl, hyacinth, granta, sapphire and ruby are processed using this form of cutting.
mixed - it includes elements of the two mentioned above. This type of cut is also called fancy. Processed stones look very impressive, but the cost and complexity of cutting are correspondingly very high.
Wedge cut
One of the varieties of step-cut stones is wedge, which in turn is also divided into several types. There are cut forms in which the lower platform is shaped like a quadrangle, or sometimes in the shape of an elongated octagon. In the first case, the edge of the stone is divided into 4 wedges, and in the second - into 3. In this case, all corner and side faces have the shape of a triangle.
In the cut shape, when the platform is quadrangular, the side faces form 4 tetrahedral pyramids with a trapezoidal base. And the bottom of the stone turns out with the same set of combinations to have 3-angled faces. The girdle separates the top of the stone from the bottom in a ratio of 1 to 2.
Most often, only the front edges of the stone are processed with wedges, but there are also varieties when the lower edges are also cut with wedges.
Wedge cutting is used for cutting large diamonds, rubies, emeralds, aquamarines, sapphires, rhodolites, amethysts, demontoids and other transparent stones.
Perfect cut
The ideal diamond cut using the Tolkowsky technique is very often used in the USA.
Her characteristic feature is that with a girdle diameter of 100%, the width of the table - the central face - is 53%, the height of the crown is 16.2%, while the depth of the pavilion is 43.1%.
Cut KR-57
The round cut of gemstones with 57 facets is called KR-57.
The peculiarity of this type of cut is that 8 top wedges (single) extend from the platform, which come into contact with the same number of main faces of the crown, and 16 paired wedges at the girdle complete the top of the crystal.
The downward elongated pavilion has 24 faces and 16 wedges, and the 8 main facets of the pavilion are connected in a culet.
Oval cut
The Oval cut is a type of wedge cut that has an oval shape. This type of cut is used for large crystals intended to be set in rings, pendants or earrings. A ring is ideal for insertion, since an oval-shaped stone visually lengthens the fingers.
This elongated variety of the round cut has recently gained more popularity for center stones in engagement rings.
The oval type of cut appeared relatively recently - in the 60s of the last century, in contrast to the round one, which has been known for more than three hundred years.
Pear Cut
The “Pear” cut refers to wedge-shaped cuts. The proportions of a diamond with this cut are equal to the proportions of a stone with a round cut. On the one hand, the crystal has a rounded end, on the other – a narrowed one. Most often, stones for jewelry in the form of earrings and pendants are cut in this way; less often, the main stone in a ring is cut with a pear-shaped cut.
In fact, 32 facets are created in the upper part of the stone, and 23 in the lower part. However, the ratio between the sides can vary from 1.5 to 2. It turns out that it is a direct proportion: the higher the ratio, the more elongated the stone becomes. The main task of a jeweler cutting a stone with this type of cut is to correctly maintain all proportions so that light is reflected evenly from all faces.
The thickness of the girdle for a pear-shaped cut should not be higher than 2%, but also should not be less than 0.7%. It turns out that there is one site, its sizes start from 55% to 62%. The bottom angle is usually 40.5 to 41.5%, and the top angle is 33 to 35 degrees.
When purchasing jewelry with pear-shaped stones, it is worth remembering that a bow tie effect may occur, where shadows appear on the main surface of the stone. However, it is worth remembering that this is only a visible effect; in fact, the stone is pure.
Marquise cut
The Marquise cut is a type of round brilliant cut; there is another name for this technique – “Shuttle”. The Marquise cut is the most common type of fancy cut gemstone. The main advantage of the technique is the presence of a “game” effect, which is created due to large quantity crystal faces and their specific location relative to each other.
If we evaluate appearance crystal with a “Marquise” cut, then most of all it resembles a boat; by the way, with this type of cut the gemstone loses a minimal amount of weight. Jewelry with such a stone they look very elegant and sophisticated, however, despite the apparent fragility of the product, in fact, “Marquis”, on the contrary, visually enlarges the crystal. By the way, a note for women, a ring with a precious stone treated with a “Shuttle” cut will visually make the finger longer and thinner, and the hand more graceful.
When cutting "Marquise", 32 facets are created in the crystal in its upper part and 22 in the lower part. The platform will be uniform, but the thickness of the girdle varies within fairly wide limits: from 0.7 to 2.5%. It is very important to pay attention to the size of the site itself; it should be at least 55%, but not more than 62%, otherwise the proportions will not be met. The bottom angle can vary from 40.5 to 42.5 degrees, and the top angle, respectively, is from 33 to 35 degrees. However, the most important value in this type of cut is the elongation, which must be at least 1.65.
The name of the technique is still being debated; some are inclined to believe that the name “Marquis” was given in honor of Louis XV, the king of the sun. This monarch had a mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour, who greatly valued luxury, including jewelry. The king, who adored his favorite, ordered a diamond to be made that would resemble his beloved's smile. Soon a diamond cut using the Marquise technique appeared for the first time.
Heart cut diamonds
The heart of the Heart cut resembles a pear-shaped (teardrop-shaped) wedge finish, but the stone appears to split from the side of the head. The Heart Diamond has equal width and length and has 57 facets.
It is when cutting a stone in the shape of a “Heart” that the skill of the cutter will be clearly visible. The outlining line should be extremely smooth and the edges should be symmetrical. For this cut, you should not use diamonds with a color below J, otherwise the yellowness will concentrate in the corners of the diamond. The cut shape successfully hides the flaws present in the stone, presenting it in the most favorable light.
Due to the special shape that a diamond takes after cutting, jewelry with such stones is mainly presented as a romantic gift. Most often, diamonds cut in the shape of a “Heart” are inserted into pendants, rings and earrings.
Trillion cut
The Trillion cut (Trilliant, Triangle) is a wedge type of triangular cut with almost similar width and length values. The shape and number of facets can be changed depending on the characteristics of the stone and the skills of the cutter.
This type of cut was first used in Amsterdam in 1970. There are usually two types of Trillion cut - a traditional (Straight) triangle or one with rounded edges (Curved).
Typically, this cut is used to process crystals that will be used on the side inserts to complement the central large solitaire.
Trilliant cut
Precious stones (diamonds, sapphires, amethysts, topazes and others) after the “Trilliant” (trillion) cut acquire a special triangular shape. It is preferable that the length and width values are equal, but deviations within 1.1 are allowed.
When cutting stones in the Trilliant shape, you get 3 girdles, the thickness of which is from 1 to 5%. In this case, the size of the site should be in the range from 60 to 70%, the lower angle – in the range from 30 to 48 degrees, and the upper – 35-50 degrees. The number of facets and their shape may vary, but usually 24 are on the top and 241 on the bottom.
The triangle cutting technique was invented in Amsterdam more than 30 years ago. The variations of "Thrillaint" are very wide. Stones may have pointed or rounded corners. This wedge cut of stones does not have strict criteria for the number of faces and their shape - everything depends on the characteristics of the stone. It is important that the gemstone takes on the shape of a triangle.
Trilliant stones are usually used as side inserts in rings with an existing larger gemstone. The central stones in this case are “princesses”, “emeralds” or “radiants”, but there are also jewelry with a central “trilliant”.
Shield cut
This type of cut is a Moussaieff Red diamond (Moussaieff Red, Moussaieff Red, Red Shield or Red Shield).
This 13.9 carat red crystal was found in Brazil in the 90s by a farmer. This is the largest diamond of this color. Ultimately, the diamond became the property of the William Goldberg Diamond Corporation.
The diamond was later cut by the new owner. In order to avoid large losses, the crystal was cut in a triangular, slightly rounded shape. After cutting (in the early 2000s), the 5.11-carat diamond began to be called Moussaieff Red (in honor of the founders of the jewelry company, Alice and Sam Moussaieff).
And the shape in which the diamond was cut is called Shield cut because it resembles a convex shield. This rare cut appeared in the second half of the last century.
Princess cut diamond
The most fashionable and one of the most popular types of diamond cuts is, of course, the “Princess”. This is a square (or rectangular) type of diamond cut that has sharp corners. This cut allows the light to play well, and all thanks to the return of white light when looking at the stone.
Princess cut diamonds are most often seen as a solitaire - the only decoration on a ring, earring or pendant. The frame must protect the sharp edges of the gemstone from damage - after all, these are the most fragile places. All 4 corners of the diamond must be reliably protected from chipping. When choosing jewelry, you should pay attention to the color of the diamond; stones from the color group below the seventh (J) will demonstrate a concentration of yellowness in the corners.
This cut was developed in order to diversify the most popular – round shape. Like round shapes, the “Princess” allows those who have rectangular shape precious stones sparkle just as brightly.
Types of stone cuts
All the properties for which they are so valued jewelry stone, may be more pronounced in treated stones. Actually, only a cut stone becomes precious. What disappointment overcomes a person when he first enters a mineralogical museum! Where is the sparkle, the “fire”, the play of colors? Irregular in shape, with a cloudy rough surface, usually opaque, ugly in color - they are not at all like those sparkling stones that delight in rings, brooches, and artistic items. Currently, about 300 types of stones are cut. Some require the use of several types of cuts. Diamond is the most interesting stone in this regard. Over a hundred types of cuts are used for it.
Cutting operations are very diverse and have one goal: to show the stone in its most advantageous form. Most stones are cut on automatic machines, and only very rare stones are not cut according to the standard. Cutting is the process of grinding a stone into planes of various shapes. The applied planes are called faces, or facets. There are two main types of cuts: brilliant and step. They are the basis of various shapes and types of cuts. Almost all other types of cuts are variations of these types. The shapes and types of cuts have their own names. The shape is determined by the contour of the stone from the site side. Main names: round, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, square, or square, baguette, as well as fancy shapes of various names. The type of cut is determined by the shape of the facets, the nature of their arrangement, and the number of facets. An exception is the cabochon - a finely polished convex stone. A cabochon is considered a cut, although it may not have any facets (except for the base). The shape of the cabochon base and convexity can be different. If mostly transparent stones are subjected to facet cutting, translucent and opaque stones are processed into cabochons. The cabochon enhances the optical effects of the stone. If mineral characterized by iridescence, iridescence, asterism, the stones are treated with cabochon. In cabochons made of opaque material, an unpolished base is allowed. Cut is of considerable importance when assessing the quality of a stone, to a greater extent this applies to “classic” precious jewelry stones - diamond (cut diamond) and emerald. When determining the quality of these stones, it is customary to indicate the number of facets, since this value is indicated in the evaluation table (price list) and affects the cost.
This is what the main types of stone cuts look like:
And these are the main shapes given to the stone during processing:
– are judged not only by carat weight, clarity and color, but also by cut. It determines how beautiful its shape and the play of light in it will be. What are the main types of cuts? Let's get acquainted with the basics of jewelry.
The cut of a stone and its shape are not the same thing. The shape refers to the overall outline of the cut diamond and looks like a geometric figure: circle, square, rhombus, triangle, oval, etc. The cut characterizes the number, location, shape and proportions of the stone's facets. Stones of the same shape may well have different cuts
Round cut
Number of faces: 57, 33, 17
For anyone – this is a universal type of diamond cut
The round cut is a time-tested classic of diamond cutting. She is the oldest among the “sisters” and “brothers” - other types of cutting of precious stones. It was invented in the early 1900s. Then diamond saws were invented, which allowed jewelers to work with the hardest mineral of the Earth and the Universe, that is, using some diamonds to turn others into diamonds.
The 57-facet round cut best showcases the brilliance and play of light in the diamond and contributes to its longevity, minimizing the risk of chips and other external damage. This cut is highly valued when resale of the stone. For small diamonds, a simplified round cut of 33 facets (for stones weighing up to 0.99 carats) and 17 facets (0.29 carats or less) is used.
A feature of the round cut is the large loss of weight of the nugget: after processing, up to 50% of the initial weight of the diamond “goes away”.
Oval cut
Number of faces: 57
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants
A round cut variant that came into use in jewelry in the 1960s. “Oval” has wedge faces of a larger area and an elongated shape, giving the stone a beautiful shine and shimmering shades in the light. When placed in a ring, a stone of this cut visually lengthens the fingers, making them thinner and more graceful.
Marquise cut
Number of faces: 55
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
The French word marquise is pronounced mar-ki-ee-iz. Therefore, the type of cut, named after the Marquise de Pompadour, the favorite of Louis XV, in Russian sounds and is written as... a male, not a female, aristocratic title. The oval cut with pointed oblong ends immortalized the flirtatious smile of the legendary beauty. However, for many, this type of processing of precious stones is more reminiscent of a boat in shape.
A ring with a marquise cut nugget visually lengthens the fingers of the wearer. Be careful with the decoration: the sharp wedge-shaped ends are a vulnerable part of the stone cut “to resemble an aristocrat” because it is fragile.
Cut "Pear" ("Drop")
Number of faces: 55–56
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, pendants, necklaces
This type of gemstone processing combines the features of the oval cut and the marquise cut. The pear-shaped end has only one tapered end, and it is this end that must be especially carefully protected by the frame. Drop stones, like ovals and marquises, create the illusion of a longer, more graceful neck or fingers when it comes to a ring.
Princess cut
Number of faces: 49, 65, 68, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
Like the round cut, the “Princess” cut is famous for the generous play of light in the stone, but at the same time it has a rectangular (less often square) shape. Invented in the late 1960s - early 1970s. A nugget with this cut loses less of its original weight and, as a rule, costs less than a classic round cut diamond with 57 facets. “Princess” is one of the most popular types of diamond processing for wedding rings. The right angles of the stone are very fragile and require good protection from the jewelry setting.
Jewelers use such a synonym for the word “facet” as “facet” (“facet”). Platform-edges, also known as facets, are applied to the surface of the stone so that the rays of light falling on it are refracted and create the effect of radiance from within. All types of cuts, except round, are considered fancy
Emerald cut
Number of faces: 57, 65, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, rings, bracelets, pendants, necklaces
A rectangle with cut corners and fairly large facets - a similar cut is used for large-sized gemstones and exceptional purity, since it will not be possible to hide any flaws in the nugget behind many small edges with such processing of its surface. It is somewhat inferior to the round cut or the “Princess” cut in its ability to play with refracted light, but surpasses them in the strength and brightness of the light flashes emitted.
Asscher cut
Number of faces: 25, 49, 72, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces
A square variety of the Emerald cut, which has more “floors” - tiers of facets. The cut was invented in Belgium in 1902 by the Asscher brothers and the first peak of its popularity came in the 1930s. The number of edges varies depending on the weight (read: size) of the stone. In terms of jewelry design, this type of cut is typical of Art Deco jewelry.
Radiant cut
Number of faces: 65, 70, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
A stone of this cut looks like an octagon - a square or rectangle with cut corners. “Radiant”, as a type of surface treatment for precious nuggets, has absorbed the features of the “Princess” and “Emerald” cuts. It is used for stones that have something to show: rich color, purity and transparency, play of light, and most importantly, solid size. The cut has a brutal, majestic character, which is why men prefer it when choosing, for example, a ring. Visually, jewelry with a Radiant-cut stone somewhat shortens the phalanges of the fingers.
Heart cut
Number of faces: 57–58
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, pendants, pendants
In terms of stone processing technique, this method is close to pear-shaped cutting. The precious heart plays beautifully in the light... and puts you in a romantic mood! For the sake of the beauty of the lines and strength, the ratio of the length and width of the stone after cutting should be 1: 1 - this way the center of the “heart” will be less vulnerable to accidental impacts or falls of the jewelry.
Trilliant cut
Number of faces: 19, 31, 37, 52, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, earrings
The cut is in the form of an equilateral triangle with sharp or smooth corners, originating from Holland. Compared to other cutting options, this is the youngest method of processing precious stones: it was invented in the 1980s. The number of edges and their shape: for example, square, diamond-shaped, rectangular, depend on the size of the nugget and the creative intent of the jeweler.
The quality of the stone cut is indicated in the jewelry certificate. In the foreign grading system (GIA, Gemological Institute of America), the following division is accepted: Excellent (excellent cut), Very Good, Good (very good; good), Fair (average) and Poor (unsatisfactory). Russian jewelers use letter symbols: A (first-class cut), B (good), C (average), G (poor). The domestic classification is more strict: stones of the Excellent category, according to the standards of our experts, may well end up in group B
