The master class will be useful for those who want to independently sew a fur trim to any product: to a hood, to fabric, to a jacket, to a hat, to a dress.

How to work with flesh and what it is

A little theory. The fur is attached to the skin (in professional language this is called mezdra). When sewing together several plates of the mesh, many sew with a regular seam over the edge; subsequently, such a seam breaks, simply because when tensioned, the thread cuts through the mesh and the seam unravels. Also incorrect in use is an overcast seam, which tightly connects the core plates, but does not itself stretch along with the product, it tightens the seam, the seam becomes noticeable from the face of the product, often the product still needs to be pulled on a block or on a pattern. So there is a very simple seam that solves all the important problems when working with the delicate flesh of fur products.

Step-by-step instructions for sewing fur trim to the product

And thus, every second stitch is made into the previous hole:

The seam remains elastic. At the same time, it tightly connects the membrane and does not separate. The threads do not cut into the core and allow the product to be pulled. Even if the thread breaks during operation, THE SEAM WILL NOT FALL AWAY! The thread does not creep, it is pressed tightly by the adjacent stitch.

Also a little advice to everyone who has never sewn fur onto a fabric product before.

First, sew bias tape to the fur along the entire contour (with a furrier's stitch, of course), then tuck the tape inward (under the fur). But you need to sew the binding to the product, grabbing it close, close to the seam with the flesh. Thus, there will not be a large load on the mesh during use and it will tear when the fabric stretches during use.

In the photo I am sewing a strip of fur trim, which will later live on the hood.

We sew a collar.
A sewn collar, no matter how well it is cut and connected correctly, always has a somewhat irregular shape. To level the surface of the collar and obtain the exact shape of the collar, it must be “tightened” according to the pattern on a wooden board.
If the fur is expensive, then before straightening it is necessary to sew a braid along the edge (ridge) of the collar in order to 1) not spoil the fur with nails; 2) do not subsequently cut off the ridge - the best part of the skin - when trimming according to the finishing pattern. Next, when finishing the collar, the braid is either paired or left for further use when sewing a collar.
The next stage is moistening (see Moistening and curing). Then, using chalk on the board, we outline the contour of the pattern with a small allowance along the entire contour (0.5 - 1 cm), the so-called “working” pattern. We lay the moistened and cured collar cut on it. Usually - hairline down. But, if the fur is expensive and beautiful, so as not to wrinkle it again, it is laid with the hair up. We secure the collar to the shield with nails, trying to align it exactly with the pattern. If excess is formed in some places, then when nailing the nails, you should make a landing (“wrinkle”), and if there is a deficiency, stretch it to the desired size. The distance between the pegs is 0.5 - 1 cm. Having stuffed the collar, dry it for at least a day. Then we remove the dried collar cut from the board and accurately trim the collar according to the finishing (control) pattern. At the same time, we try to trim as little as possible along the ridge.
If the cut was stuffed with the hair down, then after removing it from the board, the hair needs to be carefully “smoothed”, that is, given its natural direction - first we comb it with a metal comb, then we smooth it over the hair with a damp brush and, when it is completely dry, we comb it again. Mink skins are combed and smoothed against the hair so that the fur becomes fluffy and light again.
Our collar cut is completely finished and finished. Depending on the type of fur and the type of “collar” (fur, coat fabric or lining), fur collars are processed differently. I give only the basics, but for the rest there is no limit to the imagination, including the technology of sewing a fur collar.
1)Collar and collar made of fur.
a) On collar from any fur with thin and medium core (astrakhan fur, fox, mink, nutria, etc.) for strengthening, we put on thin cotton fabric (calico, calico, chintz, etc.). We cut out the fabric 1 cm more along the contours than the collar, so that later we can bend the edges - “to the side”. Having placed the fabric on the collar, we first fasten it onto the flesh with oblique basting stitches 1-1.5 cm long. We do not pierce the flesh through, but only grab it. Then we side the fabric 1mm less than the collar.
We also fasten the fabric onto the fur collar, and then to the fabric we attach a gasket made of beading, non-adhesive interlining, etc. (for collar stability)
Having folded the collar and collar with the fur inward, we fasten them in several places and sew them together with a furrier's seam, placing the upper (larger) collar. The upper collar is usually cut out larger than the lower collar by about 1 cm around the entire perimeter. We do not make seam allowances, since furrier seams practically do not require them. Then turn it inside out.
b) On a collar and collar with thick leather fabric (mesh), do not fasten the fabric, but only lay the edge along the cuts of the collar so that the edge does not stretch. A gasket is fastened onto the collar.
c) If the flesh is very thin, weak, and the fur is cheap, then the fabric can simply be glued to the flesh (Moment, Unicum, rubber glue, etc. - as long as the flesh remains soft together with the glued fabric, and does not become "cardboard"). By no means PVA and the like! In this case, we cut out the fabric exactly according to the pattern of the collar or 0.1 cm less. We do the same when repairing an old collar with completely crumbling core.
2)Collar made of fur, collar made of coat fabric.
If the collar is cut exactly according to the pattern (without seam allowances), then we fasten (or glue) a gasket onto it flush with the fabric. Or we first strengthen it with a gasket, and then cut it out together with the gasket exactly according to the pattern. We attach batting or padding polyester to the gasket. We “cover” the collar with a fur collar, fold it over and sew it with invisible stitches. In this option, it is advisable to provide hem allowances for the fur collar.
If the collar is not made of coat fabric, it is advisable that it be in color to match the fur.
3)Fur collar, lining fabric collar (removable collar)
I’ll tell you, if possible, later, when we talk about making gorgets and lined stoles. Since their technology is essentially the same. Also, later, I will try to add drawings.

The removable fur collar has become popular again. And, as it turned out, in our weather it is a very convenient thing. And the good thing is that you can make it yourself, and a little creativity will make your outfit unique. Let's look step by step instructions and we do it!

Fashionable addition

You can sew a faux fur collar with your own hands, which will perfectly complement your outerwear.

You will need:

• Faux fur, lining fabric, width 140 cm, length 55 cm;
• Non-woven fabric;
• Hook and loop.

How to sew a new thing is shown below.

Uncover

Advice: when you baste and stitch, tuck the fur fibers that come out with a needle inside.

• You can cut the fur with a rotary cutter, scalpel or razor blade.
• Before stitching, connect the parts with pins with plastic heads, positioning them
• perpendicularly, and not along the stitching line, to prevent the parts being sewn from shifting.
• Carefully pull any lint caught in the seam with a needle onto the front side of the fur.

Step-by-step instructions in pictures

1. Cut

2. Sweeping

3. Fastening parts

3 Sewing

4. Basting and hand sewing the section after turning the product inside out

5. Sewing on a hook

What to wear with a detachable collar

Can be worn on a coat. On an A-shaped coat, it is better to wear a collar with a short or moderate pile. A long, voluminous collar will suit a business-style coat.

Any dress with a fur accessory will become even more spectacular. The removable fluffy little thing can even be worn with a cocktail dress.

Detachable collar with scarf

Look how beautiful it looks with a scarf! In an instant you will create an amazing image, and most importantly, you will be very comfortable.

How to make this product with a scarf? Watch the video first

First you need to sew belt loops on the wrong side of the collar. Then fold the scarf into a “tie”.

Then pull it through the belt loops on the wrong side. And that's all fashion accessory ready.

Dear women. Be sure to sew yourself a removable fur collar, this fashionable thing.

One of the most popular accessories winter season– removable fur collar. Moreover, it can be sewn from the most faux fur different colors and textures, and to be worn not only with outerwear!

A lined faux fur collar is ideal for everyday ensembles - sewing it yourself with our master class will not be difficult.

Evening or Cocktail Dress it’s better to decorate it with a small collar made of natural fur.

To prefer long- or short-pile fur, plain or “predatory” lining depends on your style and image.

YOU WILL NEED:

✽ Faux fur (40x20 cm),
✽ Lining fabric (40x20 cm),
✽ Ribbon 60 cm long,
✽ Paper pattern,
✽ Ruler,
✽ Pencil,
✽ Marker,
✽ Scissors,
✽ Cutter,
✽ Tailor's pins,
✽ Needle and thread for sewing

WHEN SEWING A REMOVABLE COLLAR, PAY PROPER ATTENTION TO THE LINING OF THE COLLAR.

STEP 1

At a distance of 9 cm below the top line of the collar, draw a parallel line. Set aside 2.5 cm from the middle front line along the bottom edge and connect this point to the end of the dotted line.

Transfer the contours of the pattern to the wrong side of the fur and cut it out. In this case, cut only the woven base without touching the pile!

Cut out the lining and stitch it to the fur. Before this, pin ribbon ties to the upper corners. Attention: fold the fibers at the seam allowances inward.

Master class fur collar for a coat photo 1

This master class is dedicated to technology fur collar processing on the coat. After studying this master class, you will learn how to reshape a collar from a turn-down to a stand-up collar with a one-piece stand-up, how process fur collar on winter coat and how to sew a collar to a coat along the neckline.

master class fur collar for coat photo 2

Photo 2 shows the fur collar before alteration. This is a large turn-down collar. What was it for? alteration of the collar. Firstly, it cannot be raised along the neckline of the back. Secondly, it’s too voluminous. Thirdly, as can be seen in photo 2, it lags too far behind the neck and does not protect well from the wind. In photo 1 already redone collar and as you can see, it lies along the neck and it is possible to lift it along the back to protect yourself from the cold in severe frosts.

Before you start alteration of the collar, tear it off from the neck of photo 3, and tear off the fur collar from the collar. Then we iron the collar and start cutting. How is the cut different? turn-down collar from a stand-up collar, this is, first of all, how far apart the middle seam of the collar is, since a turn-down collar practically “lies” at the back along the back. The stand-up collar on the back is raised along the neckline, as if forming a stand-up collar.

master class fur collar for coat photo 3 master class fur collar for coat photo 4

We reshape the collar as shown in photo 4. stand-up collar All sections along the collar's flap are cut out in a straight line, whereas for a turn-down collar, the flap sections have a concave shape. The difference is clearly visible in photo 4.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 5

If the adhesive on the collar is not glued well, then remove the old adhesive and stick on a new one. I applied new adhesive. We sew the middle seam of the collar and iron it out (photo 8). Then we baste the collar to the neck and try it on the client to clarify the dimensions of the collar - photo 5.

master class fur collar for coat photo 6

Now we will trim the fur collar, refining the cuts along the collar and adding 1.5 cm to the cuts for the roll of the collar. You can cut it with a stationery knife - photo 6.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 7

Let's connect the two halves of the fur collar with a hand furrier's seam as in photo 7. The technique of making a hand furrier's seam is discussed in the article: "How to sew fur - hand furrier's seam"

In the next step we need to connect the collar with the fur collar. Moreover, the collar will consist of two parts. Fur collar and collar stand cut from the main material. It is always better to make a fur collar with a sewing stand made of the main material, since the fur on the collar will not fray when the coat is worn. Let's connect the collar stand to the fur collar, first basting it, and then sew it on a machine. Seam width per foot. Then we baste the collar to the collar using an over-the-edge seam. In the corners, the fur collar sits slightly. See photos 9 and 10.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 9 master class fur collar for a coat photo 10 master class fur collar for a coat photo 11

Now we machine sew along the edge of the collar. We sew from the side of the collar to the width of the foot - photo 11. To prevent the stitching seam of the collar from turning out and lying flat, you need to make a flock. That is, secure the stitching seam between the collar and collar. It can be done different ways, but I do it as shown in photo 12. Take a thread and a needle and fasten the seam to the collar over the edge. Now the seam will lie flat. Turn the finished collar right side out, photo 13.

master class fur collar for coat photo 12 master class fur collar for a coat photo 13

The collar is ready. Now we begin to connect the collar and coat at the neck. This is quite a complex process. I tried to photograph this process as best as possible. But unfortunately not all moments processing collar can be reflected in the photo. So let's move on, if you're not tired.

We begin to baste the collar to the coat in 2 stages. First, we baste the collar, starting from the center of the back neckline to the left to the rasp, and then we baste from the rasp to the middle of the back neck, photo 14. The collar is basted to the main parts of the coat - to the back and front. At the second stage we baste bottom cut collar stands. We start from the middle of the neck back to the rasp and from the rasp to the middle of the back. We baste it to the lining and to the lining. At the rasp, the collar and collar are connected together. See photo 15. The arrows indicate the junction of the collar and the collar; the cutout in the photo looks directly at us and is perpendicular to the stitching seams of the collar.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 14 master class fur collar for coat photo 15

We sew the collar into the neck, the stitching edges of the collar and collar should coincide in the place where photo 15 is opened. In photo 16 you can see that the collar and collar are sewn in almost in a circle. The collar stand is stitched to the lining, capturing the batting as well. Then the batting needs to be trimmed a little so that there is no thickness at the seam.