What are felt boots made of? Valenki: footwear of royal palaces and fashion catwalks

Initially, felt boots were made by hand only from natural wool, and the wool was selected in a special way. Therefore, they were a rather expensive luxury, and only wealthy people could afford them. Felt boots became widespread only after the transition to an industrial manufacturing method, but the material, as before, remained and remains to this day only natural sheep wool. Sheep wool has unique medicinal properties known even under Peter I.

Nowadays, in pursuit of fashion, felt boots have changed. They began to be decorated with embroidery, appliqués and fur, making them a real work of art.

Today, felt boots are in fashion.

    They differ from classic felt boots in that:
  1. Made from felt. Felt boots are made by felting wool.
  2. Since ready-made felt is used in production, they have a seam connection. Felt boots do not have seam joints, but “roll” entirely along a special block.
  3. Felt boots have a much wider range of models. The technology allows you to use various applications and combine felt material with textiles, fur, and soles.

Now on the market, unfortunately, a large number of Chinese counterfeit. Felt boots and felt boots were no exception.

How, first of all, do counterfeit felt boots and felt boots differ from the original ones?

In production, not natural felt is used, but non-woven fabric. The main difference between non-woven fabric and felt is that it is not as durable, can literally crumble after getting wet, and is less frost-resistant. It is also worth considering that cloth boots made from natural felt have almost the same qualities as classic felt boots.

While artificial materials are much cheaper than natural ones. Felt boots from “unknown manufacturers” may cost an order of magnitude cheaper than their natural counterparts, but such savings will only bring more problems and disappointments.

When purchasing felt boots and felt boots, pay great attention to the materials from which the shoes are made.

Alexey Plotnikov


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In alenas, wire rods, scooters, chesankas, valenukhas, valezhki - as they call shoes made of sheep wool in Russia! But felt boots were not always the usual winter footwear: once upon a time, a luxury item in peasant families was worn “in line,” given as a dowry to brides, and even passed down from generation to generation. Let's remember Interesting Facts from the history of felt boots together with Natalya Letnikova.

The first felt boots in Rus'. The earliest evidence of the use of felt in the country dates back to the 4th century BC. e. Leftovers felted wool archaeologists found it in permafrost conditions in the Pazyryk mounds of the Altai Mountains. The peoples living here covered their yurts with it and made hats and clothes from wool. Costume historians believe that nomadic peoples also invented felted shoes. And along with them - during the years of the Mongol-Tatar yoke - felt boots appeared in Russian villages and cities.

From piece goods to fulling factories. In the 16th–17th centuries, felt boots were felt in Siberia and several northern regions. Manual labor was painstaking, felt boots took a long time to make. The top was felted separately and then sewn onto short chuns or pimas - that’s what short woolen boots were called in Siberia. They learned to make one-piece shoes in the Semenovsky district of the Nizhny Novgorod province in the 18th century. In villages, felt boots remained an expensive and valuable shoe - sometimes there was only one for the whole family.

Felt boots began to be produced industrially only a century later. The first fulling and rolling factories appeared in Russia, and shoes became more popular - both in the city and in the countryside.

Fashion from the royal palace. Until the 19th century, felt boots were made by hand; shoes were expensive. They were often worn by members of the upper classes. Peter I favored warm, comfortable shoes: in winter, after a bath and swimming in an ice hole, he demanded “cabbage soup and felt boots.” Catherine the Great looked for salvation for her sore legs in them. Empress Anna Ioannovna allowed her ladies-in-waiting to wear felt boots even with formal dresses: during the winter cold, the fireplaces could not cope with the heating in the spacious ballrooms.

Russian felt boots - medalists of international exhibitions. In the 19th century, felt boots became known throughout Europe. They were brought to the first international exhibition in London, where traditional shoes aroused great interest among spectators - as did Russian down scarves.

Factory felt boots from the enterprise of Mitrofan Smirnov from the village of Neklyudovo appeared at world exhibitions in Vienna in 1873, in Chicago in 1893 and in Paris in 1900. Everywhere they received gold and silver medals. Traditional shoes participated in international “shows” even after the revolution - in 1919 in Paris.

Felt boots on fashion catwalks. WITH light hand Vyacheslav Zaitsev's traditional shoes have firmly established themselves on fashion catwalks. He first added them to his collection back in 1963, when he headed experimental group garment factory of the Moscow Regional Economic Council. Back then, models wore quilted jackets and colored felt boots at the shows. After this, the shoes appeared on fashion catwalks more than once. Russian athletes wore felt boots at the Olympic Games in Salt Lake City in 2002 and students at the Universiade in China in 2009.

Valenki in Russian museums. Four museums of felt boots have been opened in Russia: in Moscow, Myshkin, Kineshma and the Mordovian village of Urusovo. There are also officer's burka felt boots, which were worn by military police a hundred years ago, and soldiers' felt boots from the Great Patriotic War. On the felt boots of the Karelian partisans there are special hooks for skis, and on the hussars warm shoes from the Myshkin Museum - spurs.

Art object “Russian size”. The largest felt boots in the world - six meters high - were felted in St. Petersburg. Artist Valeria Loshak worked for a year and spent 300 kilograms of sheep wool on her felted sculpture. It took three days to install the wool monument on the Obvodny Canal embankment; it was assembled from parts right on the spot. You could enter the art object through a special entrance in the heel; three adults could fit inside.

The previous record holder was a felt boot from Kineshma with a height of 168 centimeters. It is kept in the Kinesha Felt Felt Museum.

The question of what felt boots are made of is very interesting. But first, let's figure out what it is? Felt boots are made from felted sheep wool. The prototype for this was the felt boots of the nomads of the Great Steppe, which they began to wear one and a half thousand years ago. Only in the first half of the last century did this type of footwear gain popularity, and it was then that they began to be produced industrially. This type of shoe is still widely known to many Russians.

Very often, the very name “felt boots” causes a smile and tenderness in most people, as it is associated with something outdated and funny. However, modern manufacturers make them so comfortable that your feet will be warm even in the most severe frosts. Parents, concerned about the health of their children, buy them children's felt boots for the winter, which are not only very warm, but also beautiful, as they are decorated with interesting designs and ornaments. Understanding the question of what felt boots are made from, you can tell that they were once called cats or wire rods, which is why many are convinced that their roots are far from Russian. The thing is that felt boots were first invented by nomadic steppe peoples; they decided to roll wool, making shoes from this material. At that time, the purpose of creating felt boots was not only to keep feet warm, but also to save them from thorns, of which there were a lot in the steppe. In Rus', this idea spread from the steppe nomads.

What are felt boots made of? It was already said earlier that this type of shoe is made from animal wool, and most often sheep. The color of the finished product depends on the color of the raw materials. For example, to obtain white felt boots, you need to use sheep wool from Mongolia, and for gray boots, wool from the Caucasus or Central Asia is suitable. The production process begins with the preparation of raw materials. The wool is passed through a special apparatus, after which it is oiled and then placed in a container. In this form, the raw material enters the carding shop. The wool is placed in special units. The raw material is combed in a device using prickly rollers, and then wound onto a reel. Then they begin to make the base for the felt boots, rubbing the wool in with steam, and after that the head of the felt boot is shaped by hand. Steam grinding is carried out again. After this, all workpieces are sent to a specialized rolling machine.

So, you already understand what felt boots are made of, and now you should figure out what they do with them next? After all these operations, the wool is stretched to obtain the required shape, however, it must be twice as large as the future product. After this, the blanks go to the fulling shop. And now they are all placed in a large wooden drum, which is filled with water, to make the first felting. It was the name of this process that became the basis for the name of the product itself. Then the blanks begin to be beaten with wooden devices, and then they are stretched again on the unit. Again, the felt boots are wetted, they are given the required shape and size using special lasts, and at the end the shoes are dried in a special oven. Modern felt boots are made this way. At the end they are tapped with a block, giving the final size and shape to the products. Next, the excess wool is ground off, a rubber sole is glued on, and tags are attached. Felt boots are ready.

It is important to note that this type of footwear is truly indispensable for residents of areas with very harsh climates; this is the only way to escape the cold. Modifications, for example, Finnish felt boots, make it possible to make this type of footwear more modern by gluing it on top of a variety of materials and equipping the product with a durable sole with a tractor pattern.

The production of felt boots has remained unchanged for several hundred years. The raw material is natural wool, which shrinks greatly during the manufacturing process, resulting in the best winter shoes for frosty and dry winters.

What are felt boots

Felt boots are a look winter shoes, made from tightly knitted natural wool. In the most severe frosts, they retain heat and save the legs from frostbite, and the entire body from hypothermia, even in the Far North. The material for shoes is sheep wool, which is felted (rolled). The wool processing technology goes through the stage of simultaneous steaming and shrinking into a dense material from which the product is molded. The name of shoes, so common in the past, comes from the name of the production process - felting.

Felt boots are produced in many types. Classic models are made of tightly knitted thick wool with a medium-height shaft. They are comfortable, lightweight, durable. They are worn in the cold season in dry weather. In autumn or slushy winters, rubber galoshes are worn over felt boots. Natural wool gets trampled quite quickly, so the sole used to be often hemmed with leather. In urban conditions, felt boots were in little demand, but in the vast expanses of the province they are still relevant.

Until recently, traditional shoes were not of interest to the majority of the population; felt boots were worn only by small children. Fashion has now begun to return to natural materials and traditional crafts, which is associated with new opportunities and design discoveries.

History of felt boots

There were times when felt boots were considered a symbol of prosperity and great wealth, and shoe sellers were subject to heavy taxes. The production of felt boots was a secret for most mortals, and master felters kept their secrets secret, preferring to pass them on only to family members. It is assumed that the prototype of felt boots was pima, the footwear of nomads.

It is believed that felted shoes appeared at the end of the 18th century in the town of Myshkin, Yaroslavl province. Peter I introduced the fashion for felt boots at court; he put them on after a bath or wore them in winter. Empress Catherine the Great used felt boots to treat foot disease, and Elizabeth, by decree, allowed court ladies to wear these shoes, complete with lush dresses. Stormy innovations in Rus' were periodic, some of them were provoked by Peter I, who was distinguished by his broad-mindedness and practicality; under his rule, felt boots became available to all segments of the population.

The production of felted shoes on an industrial scale began in the 19th century. Lenin, Stalin, Khrushchev were lovers of felt boots. During the war years, felt boots were part of the winter uniform for soldiers and senior officers. Today, mandatory equipment with traditional shoes remains relevant for special forces of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Internal Affairs.

The production of felt boots is experiencing a renaissance today; they are becoming favorite objects for the application of strength and imagination among designers, which resonates with the buyer. Felt boots decorated with skillful embroidery, ribbons, and natural fur, as in ancient times, create comfortable conditions for its owner, fulfilling its main purpose - maintaining heat in cold weather.

Types of wool

To make the best felt boots in Rus', sheep wool was most often used, but goat, dog, and rabbit wool were also used. Sheep wool was valued for its high wearability and healing qualities. The wool was carded, compacted (felted) and a durable material was obtained. Further shaping manipulations were carried out manually.

The final color of the product depended on the raw materials, white ones were considered the most luxurious, they were produced using the wool of Mongolian fine-wool sheep, gray felt boots were made from sheep wool imported from Central Asia or the Caucasus. Sometimes shoes were made from materials that were not inferior in quality to their analogues, but felt boots made from them were fluffier and not as light.

Types of felt boots

Modern models are made from rabbit, sheep, goat hair, there are products made from mohair and felt. Felt boots are divided into several types, depending on the materials and models used:

  • Classic felt boots made of 100% wool, made by padding the material.
  • Shoes with soles.
  • Classic felt boots with welded rubber soles.
  • Felt boots with fur. Such models are made of thin felt, insulated with several layers of batting, inner part finished with flannelette lining. The sole is rubber. This is a more modern option that appeals to city dwellers and can be worn in any weather.

Technological process

One of best options boots for winter cold are felt boots. Production (Russia) is based on old principles that have not changed since the 19th century. The technology looks schematically like this:

  • The wool obtained in rolls is torn into small fibers and dried, for this it is sent to a carding machine. The material used is not washed, which is important for compliance with the technology.
  • The dried raw materials are sent for processing to a wool carding machine, where the material receives a single structure. After which the products are cut to size. At this stage, the felt boots are four times larger than they should be.
  • The tailored parts are sent to a rolling machine, where they are subjected to steam treatment and mechanical shrinkage, after which they are boiled in hot water. At this stage, compaction occurs, the wool shrinks to 80% of the original workpiece. Then they put it on the block, stretching it and giving it its final shape, and then dry it.
  • Dried shoes are additionally beaten with birch mallets to give greater density.
  • In the finishing shop, in classic models, the upper part of the shaft is cut off to obtain a smooth edge. But modernity has made its own adjustments, and now felt boots are embroidered with threads, beads, and rhinestones. Frequent finishing has become the use of technology artistic drawing felt, adding natural fur and other design finds.

Equipment

Today many have opened small companies, where felt boots are made. Production (Russia) was previously divided into industrial and handicraft. The equipment needed for a small and large workshop is the same, the only difference is in scale and productivity. What equipment is required for the production of felt boots?

  • Industrial or household carding machine.
  • Vibropress with steam supply.
  • Industrial washing machine.
  • Drying chamber.
  • if the model range is represented not only by classics (semi-automatic press for vulcanizing rubber soles, etc.).
  • Equipment: pads, beaters, etc.

Industrial and handicraft production

The industrial production of felt boots allows the production of up to 60 pairs of shoes per day, the artisanal version - up to 2-3 pairs. Any factory producing felt boots produces not only shoes, but related products: blankets, pillows, slippers, rugs and much more.

Today, handmade products are popular, including felt boots. U experienced craftsmen they turn out to be aesthetically pleasing, with a modern range of models. But no amount of manual effort can felt the wool to the desired state described in GOST standards. The factory for the production of felt boots will always provide its products with a certificate of conformity and useful tips for caring for the purchased pair.

Factories for the production of felted shoes

In the old days, entire volosts were engaged in felting; the occupation was difficult, but brought sufficient income to the artels. Now in Russia such shoes are produced industrially. Factories for the production of felt boots are located in several regions, there are about fifteen of them in total, the top five are as follows:

  • The largest player in this market is the Yaroslavl felted shoe factory, which produces up to 600 thousand pairs of shoes per year.
  • One of the oldest factories, the Kukmor Felting and Felting Plant, is not losing its position; the annual production of felt boots here is up to 900 thousand pairs.
  • Elvi-Plus company, production volume - 300 thousand pairs of felt boots per year.
  • The Omsk plant of felted shoes produces 170 thousand pairs per year.

Other enterprises produce a much smaller volume of felt boots, from 45 to 150 thousand pairs per year. Felt boots Russian production have made a successful alternative to foreign shoes called ugg boots. Each buyer has his own tastes, preferences and scale of values ​​by which this or that product is selected. But as for felt boots, in comparison with foreign analogues, in many respects this ancient Russian invention demonstrates best characteristics for our latitudes.

The production of felt boots in Moscow is established at the Bitsevskaya Factory, which has been making shoes for more than 150 years. The retail network of stores is spread throughout the country, and Muscovites can purchase their favorite pair without leaving the capital at the address: Stroiteley Street, building 6, building 4 (University metro station).

How to choose felt boots

A successful pair of felt boots will last for many years and will keep the owner warm in the most severe frosts. The selection of felted wool shoes is carried out according to the following principles:

  • Real felt boots are 100% wool. The material must be dense and homogeneous in composition. If there are bald spots, thickening, or lumps, the shoes will quickly tear.
  • Felt boots are not divided into right and left, they are produced the same. Shoes take on their shape as they are worn. When buying a pair, make sure that both felt boots are the same in shape, toe height, inner and outer length feet, boot sizes.
  • Smell. The only smell that felt boots may have is the smell of burnt wool; it will quickly disappear. If there is a smell of wet wool, this means a violation of the technological process; at some stage the product was poorly washed or dried, and it is impossible to get rid of it.
  • In a real felt boot, the sole and heel are made with a noticeable thickening, since in these places the shoe wears out faster and loses its shape. To determine it, just feel it.
  • Elasticity. Shoes made of wool should not be too soft (underfelted fabric) or too dense. To evaluate this quality, it is enough to bend the boot a little; under your hands, high-quality wool will spring a little and quickly unbend.
  • Size. Felt boots can be trampled in width, but they shrink in length, so you need to buy a pair 1-2 sizes larger. To determine what is necessary, there is a table of correspondence between foot size and felt boots.
  • The most natural ones are felt boots made from undyed wool; even natural dyes reduce the healing qualities of sheep wool.

Valenki are traditional winter shoes in Russia for dry frosty weather. Unlike other boots, appearance and properties, are made by felting (rolling), and not by sewing.

Historical reference

The first felted boots (pimas) were mentioned in history about one and a half thousand years ago. Steppe nomads used felt shoes to protect their feet from physical damage (thorns, stones, enemy arrows) and cold winter winds. Our ancestors adopted the method of creating comfortable shoes and gradually spread it throughout the country.

Manual felling

Nowadays, there are several dozen pimokat masters who roll boots by hand. It is hard work. Sheep wool is sheared (or bought from livestock owners), sorted, cleaned of debris, and separated by color. For felt boots, approximately 2 kilograms of raw materials are used per adult.

Next, the wool is broken down into a loose fluffy mass. Moisten with hot water and lay out in an even layer, not allowing any difference in the thickness of the future felt boots. Then the pattern is folded to resemble a sock and felted. The felted boot shrinks (shrinks) and becomes hard, dense to the point of rigidity. To give the desired size and the necessary softness, the workpiece is placed on a block and beaten with a wooden mallet. Then they are treated with pumice and sent to dry in the oven. After drying, the finished product is carefully polished again with a wooden block.

Handmade felt boots are created without the use of chemicals, from environmentally friendly materials. pure material. They have natural white, brown and grey colour. Each master puts a piece of his soul into his work and uses his acquired secrets. Such shoes will not let you freeze and will not cause calluses. But a pair of felt boots takes from two to five days. This makes it easier for people to buy a factory product.

Mass-produced felt boots

Uggs, popular all over the world, are Australian *relatives* of our felt boots. Initially invented as warm and comfortable sheepskin shoes for shepherds.

In Russia at present there are both large felted footwear enterprises and smaller factories.

Mass production differs from handmade production in terms of volume and the use of different raw materials. Pima are made from the wool of sheep, goats, rabbits and camels. Wool is brought from the countries of Asia, the Caucasus, and Mongolia.

For decoration they use: fur and appliqués, braid and cords, rhinestones, painting. Embroidery with patterns ranging from simple snowflakes to fairy tale characters on children's felt boots. The product is equipped with a durable rubber sole. To prevent the material inside from deteriorating due to dampness, it is soaked during felting chemicals. An ennobled version of the national winter footwear *Finnish* felt boots with embossed soles, lined with waterproof fabric on the outside.

Due to the variety of felted models, the demand for products is constant. Warm pimas are in demand in regions with harsh winters, especially in rural areas. They are taken by hunters and fishermen, ice fishing enthusiasts, summer residents and traders at open markets. They buy it for children and elderly people to maintain their health.