Skirt with draping at the back pattern. Asymmetrical draped skirt

Body care

Construction of drawings and cutting of skirts

To create drawings for skirts, you need to take a few additional measurements. Tie a cord or thin elastic band along the waist line and make sure that you remain in the same position all the time, otherwise the measurements will be inaccurate.

1) waist volume 2) hip volume 3) back length 4) distance from the waist line to the floor at the side 5) distance from the waist line to the floor at the back 7) distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt. Subtract the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt from the length measurements from the waist to the floor in front, side, back, i.e. determine the length of the skirt in front, side, back. When drawing a skirt pattern, start from the horizontal line of the bottom of the skirt

	Name	Measurements
1	Straight-cut skirt with 8 darts for a figure with high hips	Measurements: From = 37, About = 52, Length = 38 Length of skirt in front to floor 100, Length of skirt in back to floor 100, Length of skirt on side to floor 102. 2 sides darts=0.55R=8.8 (each=4.4) front darts=0.15R=2.4 rear darts = 0.3R = 4.8
2	Straight-cut skirt with protruding belly	Measurements: From = 39, About = 52, Length = 38 Length of skirt in front to floor 103, Length of skirt in back to floor 100, Length of skirt on side to floor 101. from the floor to the bottom of the skirt= 35 R=(OB+2)-(FROM+1)=54-40=14 2 sides darts=0.4R=5.6 (each=4.4) front darts=0.25R=3.5(2 and 1.5) rear darts = 0.35R = 4.9
3	Straight-cut skirt with 10 darts for a figure with a narrow waist	Measurements: From = 33, About = 52, Length = 38 Length of skirt in front to floor 100, Length of skirt in back to floor 100, Length of skirt on side to floor 101. from the floor to the bottom of the skirt= 35 R=(OB+2)-(FROM+1)=54-34=20 2 sides darts=0.25R=5 (each=4.4) front darts=0.2R and 0.15R (4 and 3) back darts = 0.2R = 0.4 each
4	Skirt with figured darts	Measurements: From = 37, About = 52, Length = 38 Length of skirt in front to floor 100, Length of skirt in back to floor 101, Length of skirt on side to floor 101. from the floor to the bottom of the skirt= 35 R=(OB+2)-(FROM+1)=54-38=16 2 sides darts=0.35R=5.6 front darts=0.35R=5.6 rear darts = 0.3R = 4.8
5	Straight-cut skirt with 8 darts for a figure with protruding buttocks	Measurements: OT-35, OB-52, D sp- 38 R =(OB+2)-(OT+1)= 54-36= 18. The size of the side dart opening = 0.35R = 6.3. The size of the front dart opening is 0.15R=2.7. The opening size of the two rear darts = 0.5R = 9 (each = 4.5).
6	Half-flared skirt

	Name and style	Cut	Drawing
1	4-seam skirt with welt pocket
2	Skirt with curly pleats
3	Skirt with one-way pleat at the back. Front dart creates a pocket	Sewing: Pocket burlap is sewn to the upper and lower hems. A finished leaf 4 cm wide is sewn to the bottom line of the capman. Pocket line m.b. straight or somewhat convex, i.e. curly	This style of skirt can be cut without side seam. Make a one-sided fold on the back. Along the shaped line of the front we make an undercut on the fabric.
4	Skirt fantasy. shaped line forms a pocket	Sewing: canvas and hem are basted to the shaped line of the 2nd part. Everything is attached to the car together. Then we turn the undercut part right side out and iron it. Then we sew the 2nd piece onto the 1st piece using finishing lines. Lastly, we sew the burlap of the pocket. The 2nd part is sewn with these lines and the 2nd part is partially adjusted to the 1st part using the same lines. Make 6-7 lines at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm. The direction of the lines alternates to the right and left.
5	Skirt with flaps
6	Skirt with figured stalemate and drapery		Sewing: Lay the drapery. process the stalemate with undercut facings. Place the pattern on the bottom of the skirt, baste, topstitch and iron.
7	Vera-pleated skirt
8	Skirt with pockets and pleats from pocket 1

1	Skirt with asymmetrical one-sided pleats
	Cut

	Drawing

2	Skirt with drapery


3	Skirt with one-sided pleat that goes into a pocket
	The model is developed on the basis of a straight skirt in an unfolded form. Apply a shaped line and a fold line. When cutting, add 6-10 cm to one side fold. Sewing. stitch up the darts. Place lining fabric under the top of the pocket and sew a loop. Stitch the pocket facing to the fold stock, then stitch the pocket facing to the fold stock, then turn the facing to the front side of the skirt, baste and stitch all 3 layers on top at once. turn out the toe, release the piping, add a finishing stitch. Place the piece with the pocket facing on the front of the skirt and stitch along 1/3 of the length of the fold. grind inseam folds, process the fastener.
	Cut

4	Skirt with zipper and one pocket
	Drawing
	The model was developed on the basis of a drawing of a straight skirt in an unfolded form. Instead of a fastener, it is made at the location of the right front dart. Sewing Finish the top of the flap with a trim piece made of finishing fabric with interfacing, and stitch the skirt onto the yoke. The finishing stitch runs along the pocket and yoke. Process both sides for fastening. Make loops. Hem the bottom.
	Cut

		Style	Drawing
1	Two-seam suit skirt	Notes: the line of the side cuts can be shifted both towards the rear and towards the front panel. it can also pass through the middle of the mesh width. For small sizes, the latter option is recommended. Explanations for the drawing - B=(OB+2)-(OT+1) Side out=1/2 V Back dart opening = 1/3V Front dart opening=1/3V
2	Skirt with a large difference between hips and waist circumference
3	Skirt with lots of pleats	Number of folds - 20 Waist fold width-OT/10=40/10=4 1/3x15=5 width of the folds along the hips 2/3x15= depth 150:10=15 - width and depth of the fold Panel width 50x3=150 The skirt is drawn on the fabric
			Cut skirts with lots of pleats

4	Flared two-seam skirt	Place the patterns with their centers on the folded fabric with the right side inward. Prips are given for the seams and for the hem of the bottom. The bottom allowance is 4-6. Side seam 2-3 and waist 1 cm
			Cutflared two-seam skirt

5	Skirt with bow pleat on the side	From the middle of the panel along the waist line we set aside a segment equal to (OT/4=38.4=9.5). From the resulting point to the bottom, a cutting line is drawn parallel to the line of the middle of the front. The front dart is brought to this line. Fabric consumption for a width of 75-80 - 3 skirt lengths H15 cm. With a width of 90-100-2 lengths +20 cm. With a width of 1.4 1 length + 10-15 cm (if hip circumference<=50см)	Uncover The pattern is cut along the cut line into 2 parts. The 1st piece is placed from the middle of the folded fabric along the fold. The 2nd part is moved away from the 1st to a fold depth of 12-16cm. The depth of the fold along the bottom line decreases on each side by 1.5-2 cm.
6	Skirt with welt pockets	Fabric consumption: 75-90- 2 lengths + 15-20cm 1.4- 1 length + 20-25 cm Sewing: the burlap pocket is attached right side to the front side of the skirt and basted along the main part and turned with a seam 0.8 cm wide. Turns right side out. the seam is swept out to form an edge 0.2 cm wide and ironed. After which it is delayed
			Skirt cut with welt pockets

6	yoke skirt	Coquettes come in different shapes: straight, oval, curly, etc. The width of the yoke is determined in relation to the length of the side cut. The yoke can be stitched or applied (the yoke is fitted onto a panel or the panel onto a yoke. The edge of the yoke is trimmed with stitching, piping, lace, frill, flounce, braid.
			Skirt cut with yoke

Draped skirts

The designs of skirts with drapery are based on a drawing of the base of a straight skirt. At the same time, the darts turn into drapery. The type of drapery depends on the structure of the fabric. Thus, silk and wool provide voluminous soft drapery, knitwear - flexible, plastic. Drapery made from these fabrics can be easily laid using bias and transverse threads. Rigid lightweight fabrics are draped only along the bias thread, forming clear radial folds.

Model 1 (Fig. 1)
Skirt with drapery along the dart line.

Three small unpressed pleats emerging from a slanted, slightly curved dart create a draped effect.
The direction lines of the drapery folds are applied to the pattern of the front panel of the skirt (Fig. 2). The pattern is cut along the marked lines and spread to the desired size. The distance between the folds should not be the same: between the first and second it is approximately 3.5-4 cm, and with each subsequent one it decreases by 0.5 cm compared to the previous one (Fig. 3).

Model 2 (Fig. 4)
Skirt with asymmetrical drapery along the front panel.

With asymmetrical drapery, the pattern of the front panel of the skirt is made in full size. Drilling can be placed from the waist line to the hip line and below. If it passes below the hip line, then for greater elegance the skirt is tapered at the bottom along the side seams by 2-3 cm on each side. On the pattern, mark a cutting line along which the folds of the drape will be located (Fig. 2). It is not advisable to place them at the extreme points of the cutting line; it is necessary to retreat 2-3 cm. From the cutting line to the side seam, draw lines that determine the direction of the folds.
First, cut the pattern of the front panel of the skirt along the hem line (Fig. 3) and close the dart on its left side, and then along the intended drapery lines. The width of the folds ranges from 3.5 to 4.5 cm.
The back panel of the skirt is left unchanged.

Model Z (Fig. 4)
Softly draping wrap skirtalong the front cloth

The pattern for the front right panel of the skirt is made in full size. Mark the undercut lines (Fig. 2) along which the folds of the drapery will run. These lines go from the side seam to the bottom of the skirt to the dart at the waist at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other. According to the style, mark a rounded bottom line.
Along the marked lines, the pattern of the right front panel is cut and spread to the accepted size (Fig. 3) - from 10 to 15 cm.
The left front panel of the skirt is left unchanged, that is, with darts at the waist. The rear panel is also left unchanged.

The skirt has a straight silhouette, the right panel of which is gathered along the waistline, the hemline is rounded. This model is convenient for adjusting changes in waist circumference by simply changing a button or hook.

The skirt is good for everyday wear for any typical figure, except for those with a protruding belly, since the gathering will increase it even more.

Wrap skirt can be made from any fabric of the dress group, excluding transparent fabrics such as chiffon.

To create a pattern for a skirt with a wrap and drapery, use.

Creating a skirt pattern with wrap and drapery

1. Draw the entire front panel of the straight skirt.

2. In the upper part of the skirt, the edges of the wrap-around parts should be located in close proximity to the ends of the darts.

Draw the outer edges of the wrap on the left and right sides of the front as shown in Figure 1. The edges of the wrap intersect at the line of the middle of the front panel about 10 cm above the bottom line.

3. To model the drapery (folds) from the dart on the left side of the front panel of the skirt, set aside half the solution of this dart (1 cm) towards the middle of the part and from this point draw the first cut line to the intersection point of the smells.

4. Move the dart to the cutting line.

5. Draw the second and third cutting lines as shown in Figure 1.

Note. The number and depth of folds depend on the chosen model.

6. Transfer the resulting two parts of the front panel with smells onto tracing paper.

7. Cut a dart on the right part of the front panel and make cuts along the three cut lines, without cutting the part at the bottom.

8. Move the resulting parts of the wrap skirt part apart by amounts approximately equal to 4-5 cm. The depth of the folds is determined by the model (Fig. 3).

9. Align the sections of the skirt on the resulting pattern.

10. Place folds in the direction specified by the skirt model and adjust the waist line.

11. Move the dart on the left front part towards the middle, as shown in Figure 4.

12. The pattern of the back panel of the wrap skirt remains unchanged (Fig. 2).

Sequence of sewing a skirt with wrap and drapery

1. Baste and stitch the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, iron them to the center.

2. Gather the ruffle using two machine stitches or place pleats on the right front part of the skirt.

3. Process the edges of the sides of the front panel with stitched hems. To do this, glue the adhesive interlining to the wrong side of the hem with an iron. The width of the edging can be 3-7 cm. Place the edging face to face with the edge of the edging, and sew a seam 0.5 cm from the edge.

4. Iron the seam towards the hem.

5. Baste and stitch the side seams. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back panel.

6. Turn the hem to the wrong side of the product and sweep out the edging from the side of the bead by 0.1-0.2 cm and process the bottom of the skirt along its back half.

Winter has not yet subsided, but we are already thinking about the upcoming warm sunny days of spring and summer. And fashion is always one step ahead of the current time of year.
If we take a look at the collections of leading design houses, it is clear that this spring and summer we have a large selection of different styles. Mini skirts go side by side with midi skirts; different styles, textures, colors and details of the skirts will allow you to choose a model to suit your taste.
A skirt is perhaps the most versatile and practical option for updating your wardrobe, and in combination with fashionable jewelry you can achieve chic and uniqueness.
Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, “Godet” skirt patterns, “Sun” skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flyaway cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Blade skirt
A skirt made of several wedges (made from an even number - 4, 6, 8+ 12) belongs to the classic style skirts and is popular among younger and middle-aged women. Due to the cuts made between the wedges, the effect of a loose and flowing skirt is created, so it is advisable to sew it from light, soft fabric, preferably with a one-sided pattern. Suitable for wearing in the spring and summer seasons and will be appropriate both on weekdays and on special occasions.

To calculate and construct a drawing of a skirt with circular folds, the following data is required: Cr = 38 cm, C b = 52 cm, D = 60 cm, Pt = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

Skirts made from several wedges are cut according to the pattern of a pre-drawn wedge, or the wedges are drawn directly on the fabric. The calculation and cutting of wedges, despite their number, is done according to the same principle. Let's consider constructing a pattern drawing for a six-seam skirt.

1. Calculate the width of the wedge along the waist line using the formula St/0.5 number of wedges. The width of the wedge at the waist is 38/3 = 12.7 cm.

2. Calculate the width of the wedge along the hip line using the formula (Sb + Pb)/0.5 number of wedges.

In our case, the width of the wedge along the hip line is (52 + 2)/3 = 18 cm.

3. Construct a right angle with point T.

4. From point T we put 18 cm down and put point B.

5. Through point B we draw a horizontal 5; straight line - the line of the hips.

6. From point T down, set aside the length of the skirt. We get point H, through which we also draw a horizontal line.

7. From point T to the left and right we set aside the values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the waist line T T1 = T T2 = width of the wedge along the waist line/2 = 12.7/2 = 6.4 cm.

8. From point B to the left and right we set aside the Values, the sum of which is equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line

BB 1 = BB2 = wedge width along the hip line/2 = 18/2 = 9 cm.

9. From point H to the left and right we set aside a value equal to the width of the wedge along the hip line HH1 = HH2 = BB 1 = BB2 = 9 cm.

10. Connect the points T 1, B1 and H1 and T2, B2 and H2. Thus, the base of the wedge passes through points T1B1N1NN2B2T2GT 1.

To make the wedge more flared, you can, by connecting points T1 with B1 and T2 with B2, continue straight lines to the bottom line.

11. Set aside 1 cm from point T down (this value can vary from 0.3 to 1 cm depending on the width of the wedge at the bottom and the thickness of the fabric) and set point T3

12. We measure the distance between points T3 and H and put the resulting value from point T1 down and from point T 2 down, respectively. We get points H3 and H4.

13. We draw a wedge line, as shown in Fig. 156.

The contours of the wedge variety pass through the points T1B1N3N1NN2N4B2T2T3T1.

Rice. 156. Drawing of a wedge pattern for a wedge skirt

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Baste the wedges, stitch with a seam of 1.5-2 cm. Remove the basting, iron the seams, leaving one seam unstitched 16-18 cm to the waist line.

2. Thread in the zipper, stitch in, remove the basting, iron

3. Treat the top cut with a belt or grosgrain ribbon,

4. Align the bottom of the skirt during fitting.

5P sew the bottom of the skirt.

6. Iron the skirt. The product is ready.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

When cutting, it is necessary to adhere to the economical consumption of fabric. Cutting will be economical if the pattern is sequentially placed on the unfolded fabric in opposite directions (Fig. 157a). If the fabric is piled or has a clearly defined pattern, then the wedges should be cut out in one direction so that the finished stitched wedges do not differ from each other (Fig. . 1576), Seam allowances should also be given.

Fabric consumption for a width of 60-70 cm is three skirt lengths plus 12 cm, for a width of 90 cm two skirt lengths plus 10 cm and for a width of 140 cm one skirt length plus 5 cm.

Rice. 157 a. Layout of wedges for a wedge skirt

Rice. 157 b. Layout of wedges on a wedge skirt with pile fabric or fabric with a pattern.

After cutting, the wedge cuts can be trimmed (if necessary). To do this, measure the length of the wedge in the middle and put the same length along the side cut from the waist line.

Straight skirt with figured ruffles

Skirt of a romantic style, extended silhouette. Good for both everyday wear and special occasions (Fig. 68). Everything depends on the fabric from which it is made. It can be either satin or velor* voile and any other fabric. It can be sewn to any standard figure. The skirt can be made from ready-made scarves that match the structure of the main fabric.

Mainly designed for younger and middle age groups.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of the two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. On the front panel of the skirt, shaped lines are drawn for the bottom of the figured yoke: segment a1a (Fig. 69).

2. The lower cutting part of the front is segment a1a.

3, In the same accordance, shaped lines are applied to the back of the skirt, and on the side, points a1 and a2, b 1 and b2 must strictly coincide.

4. The frills are cut out in a straight line with a width that overlaps the cutting part of the bottom by 2-3 cm. The frills are cut out at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, their length should be 1.5 times greater than the lengths of the segments a3a2 and a combined (for upper frill) and the sum of segments b3b2 and b2b (for the lower frill). (How to cut out the frill is shown in the layout plan). The width of the frill is 2-3 cm larger than the lower cutting parts of the skirt.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Finish the bottom of the ruffles with a Moscow seam with a double hem.

2, Gather the top of the ruffles using two machine lines.

3. Baste and stitch the middle seam of the back to the zipper. Overcast the seam and iron in different

sides. The zipper is placed on the wrong side under the ironed folds of the zipper so that the links are 0.1 cm from the edge.

4. Stitch the side edges of the yokes, folding them face to face, retreating from the edge by the specified width of the allowance. Overcast the seam using an overcasting machine and press towards the back panel.

5. Baste the gathered lace to the front bottom of the yoke. Then, face to face, place and baste the frill on top since there is still lace inserted between the frill and the yoke). Sew everything in one line, sweep the seam and iron it towards the yoke. On the front side, secure it with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold.

6. Connect the lower part of the skirt along the side seams, overcast the seams and iron them towards the back panel.

7. Baste and stitch the second frill to the bottom edge of the cut-off shaped part of the skirt. Secure on the front side with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold.

8. Connect the lower part of the skirt with the stitched frill to the yoke.

9. Overcast the top section of the skirt with a stitched belt, which in this model is wider in style than the usual classic one. For a better fit at the waist, it needs to be straightened, that is, the lower section of the belt that connects to the waist should be pulled out with an iron, and the fold, on the contrary, should be slightly tucked. The belt should have the finished appearance as in Fig. 70.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 71.

Straight skirt with draping on the sides

A straight silhouette skirt for special occasions (Fig. 72). Recommended for women of thin build with narrow hips and a thin waist. This skirt visually lengthens your height. In front of the skirt, the hem at the top goes into the waistband. The double clasp imitates two rows of buttons. A drapery in the form of a swing, which is made of soft, easily draped fabric, is inserted into the cut-off parts. The fabric should not be very heavy so that the shape of the drapery holds beautifully, giving the model a touch of romanticism.

The buttons can be covered with the same fabric from which the skirt is made, but they can be made as finishing accessories.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the base of the straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. Place T1T1-1 up, equal to the width of the belt (Fig. 73).

2. From the top of the dart, lower the straight line along the style to point b.

3. From point b to the thigh, draw a shaped cutting line.

4. Mark cut lines for drapery.

5. Do the same on the back panel of the skirt, and the points along the thigh should coincide. There will be no seam along the thigh in the drapery; these parts are one-piece. The seam on the side is made only in the yokes under the drapery.

6. Drapery in reliefs is laid in folds at the top. The lower part of the drapery is sewn into the undercut.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Place warehouses along section AB from the side of the rear panel and along section BG from the side of the front panel of the skirt. They should be equal to the vertical cutting lines,

2. Connect these segments with the cutting lines. Press the seams towards the center after overcasting.

3. Baste by folding the skirt panels face to face along the side seam. Stitch and iron towards the back. Sew a zipper into the left side.

4. Connect the bottom of the drapery to the bottom of the hem. Overcast the seams and press to the bottom.

5. Make a finishing stitch from the front side 0.5 cm from the edge using line silk to match the fabric.

6. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the edge using a special machine.

7. Cut out a belt and use it to trim the top of the skirt

8. Along the central part of the front, connect the center with a one-piece belt and the parts of the belts sewn to the skirt. Sew on six finishing buttons.

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 75.

Straight wrap skirt with asymmetrical hem and draping

The skirt has a straight silhouette with a wraparound front and a three-button closure. This asymmetry is good for figures with different configurations of the left and right hips. On the side of the asymmetrical fastener there is an undercut and drapery coming out of it (Fig. 76). This skirt is cut with the fabric turned out. The belt is ordinary, with no clasp or buckle. This model is good for everyday wear and can be sewn from any type of fabric. Cotton is especially good for the warm season. For the cold season, wrinkle-resistant fabrics containing lavsan are recommended. The skirt is suitable for women of any age group.

Construction of design drawings The patterns are removed from the base grid of the drawing of the basis of a two-tone skirt (Fig. 14),

The rear panel remains unchanged.

1. On the front panel, the entry T1T3 is equal to the distance to the dart on the left panel (Fig. 77). From point T3 we lower the perpendicular down until it intersects with the bottom line (point

2. At the bottom of the pattern we make a rounding, exactly the same will be in the left panel.

3. We outline the cutting line for the yoke according to the pattern, and close the dart in the yoke.

4. On the lower cutting part we mark the sliding lines in parallel straight lines to the center of the front. We cut from top to bottom and spread it to the desired width; this will be an assembly under the yoke.

5. Remove the left panel of the skirt from the drawing. At the level of the dart there is a line of lining of the right side of the TZNZ skirt, aligned center to center.

6. We design the bottom of the side according to the pattern in exactly the same way as in the right panel.

7. We cut out the hems 5-7 cm wide exactly according to the configuration of the sides of the right and left panels of the skirt.

8. The belt is cut out with a straight strip of fabric 8-10 cm wide equal to the waist circumference with an increase perpendicular to the warp threads

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Baste and stitch the darts on the back panel and the left front panel. Iron them towards the center, ironing the slack at the top of the dart through a damp iron.

2. If there is a middle seam in the back panel, connect it, overcast it and iron it. If there is no seam, mark the center of the back panel using copy stitches or soap.

3. Assemble the gathering using a double machine stitch with an interval of 0.5 cm and a stitch length of 4-5 mm,

4. Connect the undercut to the gather, placing them face to face. Baste and stitch 1 cm from the edges. Mark seam allowances and iron towards the yoke. On the front side, give a finishing stitch with line silk 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge (optional).

5. Apply an adhesive pad to the hem from the inside out with an iron. Place them face to face with the main pieces and stitch around the edge. Turn it inside out and stitch a 0.1 cm edge on the hem side. On the front side, secure the stitch with a finishing stitch 0.1 or 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove basting threads. Silk should match the color of the main fabric,

6. On the back panel of the skirt, sweep the bottom using a hem stitch with preliminary overcasting of the sections using a special machine.

7. Fold the front panels of the skirt face to face along the side seam, baste, stitch with a seam width of 1 cm. Overcast the seams and iron towards the back.

8. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt from edge to edge. Iron the entire product from the wrong side.

9. Overcast the loops on the right panel. They are performed on processed parts or on the finished product,

10. On the left panel mark the place for sewing on the buttons, always matching the centers

on the front. Sew on buttons

11. Hang the skirt on the trempel for complete sagging. 40-45 min. The product is ready.

PLAN, LAYOUTS AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 79,

Straight wrap skirt with gathered waist

Skirt with a straight silhouette. Asymmetrical wrap front closure. On the right side of the bottom of the skirt there is a gather along the waist line, or the bottom is slightly rounded (Fig. 80). This model is convenient for correcting changes in the size of the waist circumference by simply altering the waistband or hook. The skirt is good for everyday wear for any typical figure (except for figures with a protruding waist, since the gathering will increase it even more).

The model can be made from any fabric of the dress group (excluding transparent ones such as chiffon, gauze, etc.),

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The drawing (Fig. 81) is based on the base mesh of a two-seam straight skirt (Fig. 14).

1. The back remains unchanged.

2. On the drawing of the front panel, we put the smell value to the right of point T1 (center) - segment T1T5. It is desirable that it overlaps the dart in the left front panel (this way the finished product looks more aesthetically pleasing).

3. From point T5, lower the perpendicular down until it intersects with the bottom line. We get point H5. Using the pattern, smoothly shape the curve of the bottom of the right front panel of the skirt.

4. Mark the sliding lines as parallel straight lines relative to the center line of the panel in front of it. Cut along the lines from top to bottom. Extend the waist to the desired width, depending on the amount of gathering required for the style. The greater the sliding, the greater the assembly will be. The groove automatically goes into the assembly*

5. The left panel of the skirt remains unchanged. At the level of the dart there is a line overlapping the edge of the right side, thereby closing the dart. According to the style, the bottom of the left panel is not rounded.

6. We cut out an undercut hem according to the shape of the bead of the right panel, 6-7 cm wide. The hem of the left panel can be either stitched to the shape of the edge of the bead, 5-7 cm wide, or one-piece. It is shown as a dotted line in the drawing.

7. Cut out the belt 8-10 cm wide, more than the waist circumference

approach (preferably at an angle of 45 degrees, if the fabric allows, or perpendicular to the warp threads).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

Assemble the gathering using two machine stitches with a stitch of at least 4-5 mm.

Finish the edges of the edges with stitched edges; to do this, glue the adhesive interlining to the wrong side of the edge with an iron. Place the hem face to face with the edge of the bead, and sew a seam 0.5 cm from the edge. Turn it under the bead to the wrong side of the product and sweep out the edging from the side by 0.1 cm.

Sew darts on the back panel and the left front panel of the skirt. Iron them towards the center. At the top of the dart, iron the slack using a damp iron from the front side of the product.

Connect the side seams. Place the back and front pieces right sides together. Baste and stitch on a universal machine. Overcast the seams and iron towards the back panel.

Prepare a belt.

Glue adhesive interlining-36 to the underbelt from the inside out. Then iron with an iron. Sew the upper belt to the skirt, folding them face to face, and fold the seam allowance on the side of the under-belt inward and sew on the front side with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Stitch the edges of the waistband, turn them inside out and iron.

Punch a loop on the belt and sew on a button

LAYOUT PLAN AND FABRIC CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 83.

Straight skirt with triangular yoke and counter pleat

This skirt model (Fig. 84) is recommended for women of the younger and middle age groups, with a thin waist and. not very wide hips. The skirt can be made of soft wool or crepe fabric and will go perfectly with a classic blouse.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

Initial data: St, C6, Du, Pt, - 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

We build the basis of the straight skirt design (Fig. 14).

We find the size and position of the darts, but we do not design the front and back darts yet.

We find the lines of the yokes: from points T and T1 we put 30 cm down and we get points K and K1 (Fig. 85), Point K is connected to point 1, point K1: to point 4. We transfer the ends of the darts to the lines of the yokes and smooth lines we design the second side of the darts. From points H and H 1 to the left and right, along the continuation of the bottom line, we put aside folds of 8-10 cm. We arrange the upper sections of the fold so that when processed they fall into the stitching seam of the yoke. To obtain soft folds at the yoke on the front panel of the skirt, first draw the lines for the location of these folds (dotted line in Fig. 85). Then we cut the pattern along the lines starting from the yoke to the sides so that it does not fall apart and spread it along each line by 3-4 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay a snare along the contour lines of the pattern using threads of a contrasting color.

2. Baste the front panel of the skirt from the front and back. About ironing using a damp iron.

3. Lay and sweep soft folds on the middle panel of the skirt along the stitching line of the triangular yoke.

4. Baste and stitch the triangular yoke to the front panel with a 1-1.5 cm seam

skirts, making a notch in the corner. During processing, the upper sections of the folds should fall on the tires of the yoke stitching. The seam of the yoke stitching should be overcast and ironed towards the yoke. On the front side of the yoke, lay a finishing stitch using silk threads to match the color of the main fabric,

5. Baste the folds on the back panel - from the front and back sides, iron through, ironing.

6. Baste and stitch the triangular yoke to the back panel of the skirt, making a notch in the corner. Overcast the yoke stitching seam and iron it towards the yoke. From the front

Along the sides of the yoke, place a finishing stitch 0.5 cm from the stitching line with silk threads.

7. Baste and stitch the side sections of the skirt, leaving the left side seam at the fastener area unstitched. Overcast the cuts and press the seams.

8. Baste and sew a zipper into the left side seam. The size of the zipper is 18-20 cm.

9. Finish the top section of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously sewn adhesive interlining under the belt. The finished width of the belt is 5 cm.

10. Finish the bottom edge of the skirt with a hem seam with a closed edge or an open edge; the bottom edge of the skirt has been pre-stitched.

11, Iron the finished product.

LAYOUT PLAN AND WEAVING CONSUMPTION

The layout of the patterns is shown in Fig. 86.

If the fabric is folded in half, then the seam allowances on the front and back panels are cut out in one piece. Fabric consumption for a width of 150 cm is equal to: skirt length plus 12 cm (at the waist) plus seam allowances. With a width of 90 cm, the fabric consumption is equal to: two lengths of the skirt plus 12 cm (at the waist) plus seam allowances.

Straight skirt with symmetrical cuts

Straight two-seam skirt with symmetrical undercuts on the front panel. Three one-sided warehouses emerge from each undercut, laid to the side. The front darts go to the yoke-undercut (Fig. 87). For this skirt model, it is advisable to use six-piece or mixed fabrics. This skirt will suit women of any age group.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The skirt is built on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14, 88)

MODELING OF THE FRONT PANELS.

1. The extension along the bottom of the front and back half of the skirt is 2 cm.

2. Formation of an undercut - we make an undercut through the end of the dart. We transfer the dart to the cutting line.

3. Warehouses - divide the cutting line into three equal parts and draw vertical lines down from the cutting. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

Cut off the upper allowances for the warehouses only after sweeping the warehouse with an undercut.

SKIRT MODELING.

1.. Close the darts on the front panel of the skirt (Fig. 89).

2. Cut and move apart the warehouses (Fig. 90).

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

Sequence of sewing a skirt.

After cutting the skirt, we prepare for the first fitting.

1. We sweep the darts on the back panel of the skirt from the top to the bottom.

2. We notice the warehouses from the front side and from the back.

3. Sweep away the warehouses with an undercut.

4. We sweep away the side sections, matching the control lines of the bottom, hips, and waist.

5. We throw in the lock.

6. Fold the seam allowance inside out and note:

7. Measure the length of the cut along the waistline and gather it into two threads to prevent stretching.

8. We prepare a braid (share strip) equal in length to the waist size plus 2-3 cm for the set.

9. We baste the braid to the cut of the waist line and throw it along the skirt.

FIRST FITTION.

1. We pay attention to the appearance of the skirt, how the product fits the figure at the waist and hips, whether the pleats lie well, whether the bottom of the skirt is folded evenly, whether the length of the skirt is sufficient.

2. After trying on, mark all changes with a contrasting thread. Remove the braid and rip apart the sides to process the front and back halves of the skirt separately.

PROCESSING PROCEDURE FOR SKIRT.

1. Sew the darts on the back panel of the skirt.

2. We carry out wet-heat treatment of darts:

a) iron the dart from the wrong side, as if pressing it with an iron;

b) iron the dart on both sides;

c) iron the bulge at the end of the dart;

d) iron the dart from the front side through the ironing to the center of the product.

3. Ironing the warehouses. We do not remove the thread used to cover the folds until sewing is completed.

4. Sew the folds with the undercut and iron the seam towards the undercut. We sew the cut.

5. Stitch the side cuts, basting them again, aligning the reference lines. We iron the seams. We sew the left one up to the clasp, sew in the lock, and sew in the belt

SECOND FITTION.

We clarify the position of the fastener, straighten the bottom of the product, then sew in the lock, process the bottom of the product and the upper section of the skirt.

Straight skirt with symmetrical undercuts and an insert from the counter stock

The skirt is two-seam made of wool or mixed fabric, and the front panel of the skirt has two symmetrical cuts in the upper part. In the center of the front panel there is an insert of counter parts placed inside. The waistband is stitched, there is no zipper on the side seam (Fig. 91).

This skirt model is more suitable for women of the younger and middle age groups and will go perfectly with a classic-cut blouse.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front panel (Fig. 92).

1. Move the front darts 2 cm closer to the center.

2. We draw undercut lines through the ends of the darts to the side cuts

3. Mark the insertion line on the front panel and divide it into 8 equal parts. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

4. The extension along the bottom of the front and back halves of the skirt is 2 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sweep the opposite folds on the insert from the front side and from the back to the center and iron from the front side using an iron.

2. Baste the yokes to the main part of the front panel and stitch. Sweep the cuts. Press the stitching seams onto the yokes.

3. Place the insert onto the front panel and stitch it in, after making notches in the corners of the main part. Overcast the stitching seam and iron it towards the main part.

4. Baste the darts on the back panel of the skirt and stitch, making tacks at the tops of the darts.

Iron the darts to the center of the back panel

5. Baste the side sections of the skirt, aligning the reference lines (waist, hip, bottom line).

6. Stitch the side sections of the skirt, leaving the left side seam unstitched at the fastener area. Overcast the cuts and press the seams.

7. Sew in and sew in the zipper.

8. Finish the top edge of the skirt with a stitched belt. The finished width of the belt is 3-4 cm.

9. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with a closed cut or an open cut, having previously swept it.

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of the patterns on the material is shown in Fig. 94.

Straight skirt with symmetrical cuts on the front and back panels

This skirt model is a modification of a straight two-volume skirt. On the front and rear panels, symmetry-stump undercuts are made. One-way warehouses emerge from them. Zip fastener in the side seam, stitched waistband (Fig. 95).

This skirt model is suitable for women of any age group. It is advisable to use wool or mixed fabrics for sewing it.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14) by modeling the front and back panels (Fig. 96).

1. We outline the undercut lines on the drawing as we want to see them in finished form.

2. Divide the line of each undercut into four equal parts and draw vertical lines down from the undercut. The width of the warehouse is 1/2 of its depth.

Modeling of the front panel of the skirt is shown in Fig. 97. The folds on the back panel of the skirt are moved apart in a similar way.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Baste the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt from top to bottom. Stitch the darts, making tacks, and iron them to the centers of the panels. Tighten the weak points at the tops of the darts.

2. Sweep the folds from the front side and from the back, then iron them.

3. Sweep folds with undercuts on the front and back panels of the skirt.

4. Stitch the swept folds with undercuts. Overcast the sections, press the stitching seams to the sides of the undercuts. On the front side, place a finishing stitch 0.5 cm from the seaming line of the hem with the folds.

5. Baste and stitch the side sections of the skirt, aligning the reference lines, leaving the left side seam unstitched at the fastener area. Overcast the cuts, iron the seams,

6. Thread in and sew in the zipper.

7. Finish the top section of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously glued adhesive interlining under the belt,

8. Sweep the bottom of the skirt.

9. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a closed hem stitch.

10. Iron the skirt - the product is ready!

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout of the patterns on the material is shown in Fig. 98.

Straight skirt with welt pockets and soft pleats at the waist

The skirt is made on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt and can be sewn from thick wool, raincoat or denim fabric. The zipper is located in the center of the back. There is a one-sided vent along the middle seam of the back. Instead of darts along the front there are small folds - tucks. The belt is stitched. On the front panel of the skirt there are pockets with a detachable side. There is a finishing stitch along the middle front seam and the edges of the pockets (Fig. 99).

This skirt is more suitable for women of the younger and middle age groups. Suitable for wearing during the cold season.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The design of this skirt model is based on a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14),

1. Give an extension at the bottom of 1.5 cm (Fig. 100).

2. On the front half of the skirt, the darts are moved to small warehouses, but do not remain in the old place, but are moved closer to the center according to the style. The depth of each fold is 1/2 the depth of the dart.

3. We mark the line of entry into the pocket on the front panel. The dotted line on the drawing shows the burlap pocket,

4. Allow allowance for the vent in the middle seam of the back panel (6-10 cm). We take the length of the slot equal to 20-25 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sew small folds on the front panel of the skirt, sweep away the darts on the back panel of the skirt.

2. Baste the middle seam of the front half of the skirt.

3. Baste the cut side to the pocket entry line.

4. Baste the seam of the rear panel skirt to the place where the vent will be processed. Sweep the vent allowances to the wrong side.

5. Baste the side sections, matching the control lines of the bottom, hips, and waist. Baste allowances on both sides of the seam.

6. Sew the zipper into the side seam.

7. Iron the hem allowance inside out and sweep it over.

8. Prepare a braid (separated strip) equal in length to the waist size plus 2-3 cm at the end.

9. Baste the braid to the top edge of the skirt.

10. Carry out the first marking. Pay attention to the appearance of the skirt: how the product fits the figure at the waist and hips, whether the bottom of the skirt is folded evenly, whether the small folds along the waist line are the same, whether the cut of the pocket matches the model, whether the length of the skirt and vents are sufficient. After trying on, mark any changes with a contrasting thread. Remove the braid, rip apart the sides to process the front and back halves of the skirt separately,

11. Finish the skirt pockets (see below).

12. Sew the middle seam of the front half of the skirt. Iron the seams, add finishing lines,

13. Sew small folds and iron them towards the center.

14. Sew the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt to the place where the vent will be processed.

15. Process the slot,

16. Sew darts on the back half of the skirt.

17. Carry out wet-heat treatment of darts.

18. Stitch the side sections, basting them again, aligning the reference lines. Press the seams. Sew the left side up to the fastener, baste the lock, baste the belt,

19. Carry out a second fitting, during which you will clarify the position of the fastener and trim the bottom of the product. Then sew in the lock, sew the skirt and its upper edge with a stitched belt.

PROCESSING SKIRT POCKETS

To strengthen the entrance to the pocket, baste an edge or interlining to the underside of the main part, baste a one-piece facing with burlap facing the entrance to the pocket and overstitch the cut with a 0.5-0.7 cm seam. Cut the interfacing from the seam, make a notch on the curves. Turn inside out, sweep out and iron. Place the finishing stitch on the model. On the cut-off barrel, mark the line of entry into the pocket, attach the cut-off barrel to the main part, stitch the burlap parts with a 1 cm seam, secure the entrance to the pocket with tacks perpendicular to the entry line, iron the pocket.

RULES OF CUT

When cutting symmetrical parts, the fabric is folded in half with the right side inward and the wrong side outward. In this case, the edges of the fabric must be aligned and pinned along their edge.

When cutting asymmetrical skirt pieces, the fabric should be laid out in one layer, right side down. The paper pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the side on which no inscriptions were made.

Straight skirt with asymmetrical draping

A straight silhouette skirt with asymmetrical drapery of a romantic style (Fig. 101). All types of soft, stretchy fabric (velor, velvet, pan-velvet, plush, spandex, some types of stretch fabrics) are suitable for this model, since it uses radial drapery in a transverse-oblique direction. If it is made of elegant fabric, it will be quite appropriate for special occasions.

This model is well suited for middle-aged women with a properly proportioned figure. However, this skirt is not suitable for women with a sharply defined belly, since the drapery visually attracts attention to itself and will highlight the belly even more due to its volume.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14). The back remains unchanged; a zipper is sewn into the middle seam. There is a vent along the middle seam of the back at the bottom.

1. Along the horizontal bottom line to the left we lay a segment HH5 equal to 5 cm (Fig. 102).

2. We draw a segment vertically upward to the desired length of the spline - this will be the length of the spline according to the style,

3. The front is built in expanded form. Cutting part 2 is made according to the pattern (the main part of the skirt is 1),

4. The top of the left dart is raised up so that it touches the cutting part. New side parts of the dart are drawn. Both darts will close. The left side of the side is divided into 5 equal parts exactly like the right, but the size of the right parts should be slightly larger. For example, the left side is 2 cm, the right side is 3 cm.

5. Connect the resulting points with smooth curves according to the pattern.

TECHNICAL MODELING (FIG. 103).

1. 1. Remove cutting part 2 from the drawing.

2. Close the darts.

3. Cut the relief lines towards the side,

4. We spread the drapery to the required width, taking into account the structure and softness of the fabric. The greater the extension, the more drape, therefore, the more volume there will be in the abdominal area.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Connect the middle seam of the back, folding the parts face to face. Sweep and grind, leaving 15-16 cm at the top for the “zipper” and at the bottom – the size of the slot.

2. Sew down the darts and iron them towards the center, ironing out the slack at the top.

3. The drapery is assembled using two machine lines with a stitch width of 4-5 mm. Pull together by an amount equal to the side parts of cutting part No. 2,

4. Part No. 2 is folded face to face with the front of the skirt and ground along the design shaped lines. The seams are overcast, ironed towards part No. 2 and secured with a finishing stitch on the front side 0.1 mm from the edge.

5. The slot in the back is processed (see below).

6. Once the front and back are prepared, they are folded face to face and basted, then stitched along the side seam. The seams are overcast and ironed from the wrong side using a damp iron,

7. The bottom is finished with a hem seam, with preliminary overcasting of the cut. If the skirt is made from elegant fabric (velor* velvet), then the hem is hemmed by hand using hidden stitches.

8- The top of the skirt is finished with a stitched belt.

9. Punch through the loops and sew on the buttons.

10. The finished skirt is ironed and hung for 20-30 minutes to sag.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut with the fabric turned out, especially if the fabric is fleecy. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 104.

Straight skirt with symmetrical oval drapery

Romantic style straight silhouette skirt. Double-sided drapery is made in the middle of the front panel. The hem is made with a concave curved line, from which the drapery extends to the bottom of the skirt. The clasp is made at the back with loops and hooks (Fig. 105).

This skirt model is mainly suitable for women of the middle age group and youth. The only limitation is the slightly protruding belly. The skirt can be made from various types of fabrics depending on its purpose: for special occasions - from any type of soft, draping elegant fabric, for everyday wear - from any type of dress group fabric, for example, crepe.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

1. The back remains unchanged (the middle seam of the back is connected not reaching the top by the size of the fastener with loops and hooks),

2. The front is built in expanded form (Fig. 106).

3. On the front, a cutting line AB is outlined symmetrically under the patterns.

4. From points A and B, undercut lines are drawn symmetrically to the sides, along which the sliding for drapery will subsequently be drawn. Moreover, segment AB is divided into an equal number of parts relative to the center line of the front, since there is a

the seam. On the sides, T2H4 is also divided into an equal number of parts.

5. The points of the segment A B are respectively connected to the points along the side parts of the skirt; these are the drapery extension lines.

6. Cut off the top yoke of the front of the skirt. Cut the drapery from the center to the sides and move it once to the desired width.

TECHNOLOGICAL MODELING (FIG, 107)

1. Cut off the yoke, close the darts along the front

2. Make inclined cuts from the yoke to the sides of the skirt and spread them to the desired width.

3. The front of the skirt remains along the grain thread, that is, along the line of the warp thread of the fabric.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Baste, sew the middle seam of the back with a machine stitch with a stitch width of 0.2-0.3 cm. Remove the basting threads. Iron the seam after serging it.

2. Make a hook and loop closure (see below).

3. Gather the drapery using two machine lines with a maximum stitch length, having previously basted and stitched the middle seam of the front of the skirt and the front of the yoke. Overcast and iron seams.

4. Connect the drapery with the yoke, folding the parts face to face, basting and stitching. Overcast the seam and iron it onto the yoke. On the yoke side, add a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the edge,

5. Baste and stitch the side seams, folding the back and front pieces of the skirt face to face. Overcast the seams and press towards the back.

6. Treat the upper section of the skirt with a stitched belt,

Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam, pre-overcasting the edge of the product.

TREATING HOOK AND LOOP CLOSES

The trimmed edge of the seam allowance on the upper side of the fastener is treated with a shared facing, cut from the main or lining fabric, the inner edge of which should reach the fold and serve as an edge and lining for the hooks for the upper side of the fastener.

The allowance on the bottom side of the fastener is processed in the same way as on the top, but the inner cut of the facing is processed depending on the thickness of the fabric. When processing the top of the skirt, the upper corner of the fastener is turned along the edge of the upper side of the fastener at a distance of 0.5-1 cm. A stitch is laid, ending it perpendicular or oblique to the edge of the fastener. The fastener at the end is secured with two transverse stitches.

Hooks are sewn to the top of the fastener, thread loops to the bottom.

The top hook in the skirt fastener is positioned at an angle of 45 degrees to the edge of the fastener and at a distance of 0.5 cm from the top and side edges.

LAYOUT PLAN.

The skirt is cut into a fabric spread. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 108.

Straight skirt with swing-type drapery

Model with a straight silhouette of a romantic style with widened hips. There is a seam in the center of the front. The bottom line is slightly rounded. But in fact, the role of the fastener is performed by a “zipper” in the central neck of the back. As one of the options, it is possible to make pockets on the sides of the drapery (Fig. 109).

The skirt is suitable for women with narrow hips, as the drapery passing along this part of the body makes them visually wider. Suitable for everyday wear, but preferably with blouses tucked in, since the whole “zest” of this skirt model is in the hips area, and it is not recommended to cover this part. The model is suitable for women of any age, and depending on the purpose, different types of fabrics can be used.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

1. The patterns for the back and front are taken out from the drawing of a straight-cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Fig. 14).

2. The back remains unchanged.

3. Since the drapery is symmetrical on both sides, the front of the skirt is built on one half (that is, the fabric will be folded in half its width).

4. Along the front, the bottom line of the drapery is outlined according to the pattern, the curve segment is aa 2.

5. The top of the front panel dart a3a is moved here. Point a3(1) is connected to point a1 with a smooth curve along the pattern (Fig. 110),

6. Two other points a 4 and a5 are marked on the side: which connect to the side tops of the dart. Then they will be cut and moved for the drapery, called the “swing”.

7. The bottom of the front is slightly rounded, which is also shaped according to the pattern.

8. There is gathering along the waistline from the center front to the drapery. To do this, we draw the cue parallel to the center of the front segment T2H2. We get the segment T5H5.

Then we cut the segment T1H1 in the direction from the waist to the hemline and spread it to the desired width, which ensures freedom in the waist area.

9. If the model provides pockets, then they are cut out in the normal state of the front, starting from the top drapery line a5a1 (in Fig. 110 the pocket is outlined with a dotted line), which corresponds to the size of your palm,

10. Take out the front pattern and make the appropriate extensions.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Sew darts along the back panel of the skirt, iron them to the center, and in the top area, iron the slack using a damp iron.

2. Connect the central seam of the back, overcast the seams and iron them on the wrong side.

3. Sweep in and sew in the zipper.

4. Baste and stitch the middle front seam. Overcast the seam and iron it in different directions.

5. Connect points a2, a4 and a5, placing folds up the side. We get drapery on the side like a swing. We secure it with pins (Fig. 111).

6. Along the waist line, we collect the drapery using two machine lines or fold it in folds. The main thing is that the finished product corresponds to the waist size,

7. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt, having previously connected the side seams.

8. The belt consists of two halves with a seam located in the center of the front. We fold it face to face with the skirt, matching the center front seams. After processing the belt from the front side, sew finishing buttons on both sides of the central seam at the same distance,

9. We sew the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the cut, or we sew it with hidden stitches if the skirt is made of elegant fabric.

10. Punch a loop and sew a button on the belt.

11, Iron the product and let it sag.

LAYOUT PLAN

The layout is done on double folded fabric, since all the cut details are symmetrical. If the model provides pockets in the side seams, then they are cut out in accordance with the layout plan (Fig. 112),

Straight pleated skirt

This skirt is modeled on the basis of a straight two-seam skirt. The decoration is a pleated insert along the front. There is also a seam in the center of the front. The starting point for the cut for the sheath is chosen arbitrarily (according to your wishes), but it is advisable to choose it at knee level. The zipper is located in the side seam (Fig. 113).

Thus, this model has a straight silhouette and a strict business style. The skirt will look good on women with a typical figure and will be appropriate for everyday wear, for work and business meetings. It is advisable to sew this model of skirt from fabric with the addition of cotton, wool or lavsan, so that when pleated, the folds are well fixed and do not wrinkle.

BUILDING CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS

The patterns for the back and front are taken from the drawing of a straight-cut skirt with two seams on the sides (Fig. 14).

1. Select point A - the beginning of the undercut on the middle line of the front.

2. Select point B - the end of the cut on the bottom line.

3. We connect these points and get a segment AB (there is no seam along line AH1, there is a fold of fabric) (Fig. 114).

4. Extend the bottom line to the right, we get a segment H1B1 equal to H1B (triangle ABN 1 is turned over in a mirror image).

We get the whole insert ABB 1.

5. We divide segment BB 1 into an equal number of segments (warehouse).

6. From point A, perpendicular to the center of the front, we lay out segments at an equal distance to the right and left. We get points A1 and A 2.

7. Connect point A 1 with the lower right points of the triangle. This is the direction of the warehouse. Point A 2 is connected to the lower points

the left triangle is also the direction of the warehouse.

8. Cut along the resulting lines from bottom to top and spread the warehouses to the required width.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Fold the pleating face to face with the side parts of the hem, having previously connected the middle seam of the front of the skirt and ironed it, sweep it, sew a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast the seams and iron them towards the main panel of the skirt.

On the front side, add a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the edge, thereby securing the seam allowance.

2. Connect the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, stitch and iron towards the center.

3. Fold the panels face to face, sweep along the side seams, leaving space for the zipper on the left side. Stitch, overcast, iron seams in different directions,

4. Baste and sew in the zipper.

5. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt,

6. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam with preliminary overcasting of the cut.

7. Iron the finished skirt using a damp iron.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut with the fabric turned outwards. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 116.

Straight skirt with flared yoke

Romantic style skirt, flared at the bottom. There is an asymmetrical yoke on the front and a zipper on the left side. On the belt, a braid is stitched in an oblique direction, which also trims the edge of the yoke (Fig. 117),

The skirt is suitable for everyday wear. It is mainly made from light, flowing fabrics, and can be combined: the yoke can be made from a plain fabric, and the flounce can be made from transparent, such as chiffon or nylon. The model is well suited for younger women. middle age group with a slender figure.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt in expanded form (Fig. 14).

1. An asymmetrical yoke is outlined on the back panel of the skirt. The cutting line of the yoke is segment AB (Fig. 118).

2. Accordingly, on the front panel, points A and B of the yoke - on the side should coincide.

3. Sliding lines are outlined along the bottom of the front and rear panels,

4. We allow along the lines and make the extension at the bottom more than along the line AB, so that the flounce is caged. Along the cutting line of the yoke AB, we move apart to the desired width of the assembly.

5. Darts on yokes are usually closed (for a more aesthetic appearance). To do this, those darts whose tops touch the yoke line are simply closed, and in other cases, a straight line is lowered from the top onto the yoke. Along the dotted line, it is cut to the top (the dart is then closed), and opens at the bottom, that is, we move the dart from the waist down. The distance to which the dart has opened at the bottom must be removed from the side adjacent to it.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGIES

1. Gather the upper edges of the flounces into two machine lines with a maximum stitch length with a distance of 0.5 cm

2. Fold the edges of straight yokes along the intended line, sweep and iron. Connect the yokes using the stitching, stitching and overlay methods (Fig. 120).

3. Fold the yoke with the flounce face to face, aligning the cuts. Baste and stitch with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm, overcast the seam and iron towards the yoke. On the front side, secure with a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the edge,

4. Stitch the braid on both sides in a straight line along the edge of the yoke 0.1 cm on each side.

5. Baste and stitch the side seams, aligning the side yokes. On the left side of the side we sweep in and sew in a “zipper”.

6. Overcast the seams and iron them from the wrong side.

7. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem stitch. preliminary overcasting of the edge or a seam with a double hem of the edge (“Moscow” seam).

8. Sew the braid on the waistband on the right side of the front in an oblique direction.

9. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Punch through a loop and sew on a button.

11. Iron the product from the wrong side or from the front side using a damp iron.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut with the fabric turned outwards. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 121.

Straight skirt with frill molding

This skirt has a straight silhouette and a romantic style. Along its front in the middle of the neck there is a fold in section. The starting level of the incision is at knee level or slightly lower. On the belt, two finishing buttons frame the middle seam; the decoration is served by one-sided pleats on the belt, directed from top to bottom (Fig. 122).

This skirt is generally good for holidays and celebrations, thanks to the beautiful decoration on the front - the “coquille” frill. It is suitable for slender women with a typical figure. The model can be made from any light, dress, or elegant fabric (with the exception of translucent ones, such as chiffon). It looks good from a plain fabric or from fabric with small polka dots. The “mould” frill can be made from fabric of the same texture as the main one, but slightly different in color (preferably lighter). The same fabric can be used to wrap the finishing buttons on the waistband.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. Leave the back unchanged.

2. On the middle seam of the front, the starting point of cut A is selected.

3. From this point to the right, a cutting AB is laid off, equal to two widths of the finished warehouse, since this warehouse is counter.

4. From point T 1 to the right, set aside 1 cm seam allowance. We get point T 2.

5. We connect point T1 with point B with a smooth curve (the warehouse itself is shown in shading in Fig. 123).

6.Modeling of the “mold mold”. The “mold mold” is cut out in a spiral (Fig. 124). The internal length of the entire spiral should be equal to the length of the middle seam of the front of the skirt, that is, segment T1H1. The width of the spiral is selected according to the model, and subsequently this is the width of the finished frill.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Finish the marked part of the frill with a seam with a double hem of the edge on the wrong side (“Moscow” or garter stitch).

2. Place it inside out on the face of the front panel of the skirt. Baste,

3. Place the front panels of the skirt face to face, baste and stitch along the center seam. Overcast the seam allowances and press them in different directions, leaving the cut unstitched. Remove the basting threads.

4. Baste and stitch the darts on the front and back panels. Iron them toward the center, ironing out any slack at the top.

5. Fold the panels face to face and baste along the side seams, leaving room for a zipper in the left side seam. Stitch, overcast seams and iron in different directions.

6. Sweep in and stitch in the “zipper”

7. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam and pre-sew the cut.

8. Prepare the field:

- cut out a strip of fabric equal to half the length of the belt (since there is a seam in the middle of the front) and three volumes wider than the finished width of the belt;

- sweep and stitch one-sided folds of the selected width according to the style;

- fold the top waistband with stitched pleats face to face with the under waistband and stitch along the top edge. After that, turn it out;

- connect the two halves along the middle seam;

- straighten the belt (that is, use an iron to stretch out the lower open sections that will connect to the waist of the skirt, and iron the upper seam of the belt) - The finished belt should look like an arc (in this form it fits better to the waist).

9. Finish the top of the skirt with a stitched belt.

10. Punch a loop and sew on a button (see below).

FOR LAYOUT

The skirt is cut on fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 125,

Straight skirt with flying cape

This romantic style skirt is good for holidays and special occasions. A flowing cape gives it solemnity, especially if it is made of expensive elegant fabric. But at the same time, the skirt is strict, as it is made on the basis of a straight two-seam stitch. The cape is sewn into the belt starting from the location of the darts along the front and across the entire width of the back panel, and it is shortened in front, and longer at the back and converges with its tail towards the center of the back panel (thus, an imitation of a train occurs) (Fig. 126).

The skirt itself can be made of black formal fabric, and the cape can be made of black shiny brocade type (evening version); made of white elegant fabric for women who prefer to perform a wedding ceremony in a suit rather than a dress. The belt is trimmed with buttons sewn at the level of the beginning of the cape along the front.

Such a skirt will suit both women with typical figures and those with fuller hips, since the cape hides this part of the body. It is recommended to wear with classic stiletto shoes, which makes the figure taller and slimmer.

BUILDING A STRUCTURE DRAWING

The patterns are removed from the drawing of the base of a straight two-seam skirt (Fig. 14).

1. The front and back remain unchanged,

2. A point is selected on the side. A. T2A - length for the capes on the side (Fig. 127),

3. Connect point A with a straight line to the top of the front dart with point B.

Section BB1 is the length of the cape along the front (the front dart closes).

4. Point A is connected by a straight line to point A1 along the back, segment TA1 is the length of the cape along the back.

5. Vertical sliding lines are drawn perpendicular to the bottom line of the skirt. Cut from the bottom to the waist line. Thus, we move the dart along the back down, closing it at the waist.

CAPE MODELING

The larger the wiring, the larger the coattails will be on it in finished form (Fig. 128),

You can make a cape without a side seam. In this case, you need to connect the parts along the side seam in a straight line, and simply attach the side dart at the waist or close it, moving it to the bottom of the cape (Fig. 129).

In this case, you can make the cape removable (since the waist volume of the skirt and the cape exactly match), and fasten it, for example, at the front with tangles.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Stitch the darts on the front and back of the skirt and press towards the center, ironing out the slack at the top.

2. Baste and stitch the middle back seam, leaving room for the zipper. Overcast and iron seam allowances from the inside out

3. Baste and sew the zipper into the middle seam.

4. Fold the skirt pieces face to face, sweep the side seams, sew a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast and iron the seam allowances.

5. Finish the bottom of the skirt with a hem seam and pre-overcast the edge. Iron the seam from the front side using a damp iron.

6. Sew the belt to the skirt.

Processing the cape

1. If the cape is cut according to the second option (without side seams), then sew its front part BB1 and the bottom with a seam with a double fold of the edge on the wrong side (Moscow seam). If according to the first option, then first stitch and overcast the side seams of the cape, and then process the bottom.

2. Finish the waist section of the cape with an edge stitch. To do this, cut out a bias or transverse trim with a width equal to twice the width of the edging plus 1-1.5 cm. Fold the trim lengthwise in the middle and iron it. Place the finished trim with the front side on the wrong side of the cape and stitch on the side of the trim with a seam width of 0.5-0.7 cm. Wrap the seam around the seam, forming an edging. Stitch it from the front side at a distance of 0.l-0.2 cm from the fold, while on the wrong side the stitch should extend 0.1 cm from the inner seam of the binding. Iron from the wrong side. Punch a loop at an angle to the front line of the cape the size of a button to sew it to the skirt.

3. Sew buttons along the front of the skirt at the level of the front darts.

4. Fasten (or fasten in the seam of the belt) the cape.

LAYOUT PLAN

The skirt is cut on fabric folded in half. The layout of the patterns for this skirt model is shown in Fig. 130.

Straight skirt with rectangular insert and three one-sided pleats

A straight skirt with a rectangular insert and three one-sided folds on the side is a modified straight skirt (Fig. 139). It is suitable for women of the younger and middle age group and will be very comfortable for both everyday wear and special occasions. This skirt can be made from any fabric of the dress-suit group, and for greater contrast, the side folds can be made from a material similar in structure to the main one, without differing in color. even a drawing.

BUILDING A DRAWING, STRUCTURE

Initial data: St, Sat, Du, Fri = 1 cm, Pb = 2 cm.

We build the basis of the design of a straight skirt with an unfolded front panel (Fig. 14).

1. On the front panel we draw a relief line, as shown in Fig. 140.

2. From point B3 (the point of intersection of the relief line with the hip line), set aside 5 cm upward and place point B 4.

3. From point B 4 we draw a perpendicular to the relief line and at the intersection with line T2H2 we place point E5.

4. From point BZ we put 10 cm down and put point 1, through which we draw a line parallel to the segment B4B5 and at the intersection with line T2H2, we put point 2.

5. Draw the lines for the location of one-sided warehouses. To do this, divide the segment marked by points 1-2 into 3 equal parts (so: as the number of warehouses is 3), and through the resulting points we draw straight lines perpendicular to the bottom line.

6. We cut off the left part of the front panel along the relief line, then cut it along the line of the rectangular insert passing through points B 4 B5, 2, 1,

7. We cut the patterns along the fold lines and move them once to the width of the allowance for each fold. For one-sided folds, the allowance is 8 cm.

PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

1. Lay the snare along the contour lines of the pattern.

2. Baste and stitch the darts on the back panel of the skirt. Make WTO darts.

3. Sew a dart on the right half of the front panel. Make WTO tucks,

4. Sweep one-sided folds from the front and back sides.

5. Baste and stitch parts of the left half of the front panel of the skirt. The width of the seam is 1-1.5 cm. Overcast the sections. Iron seams towards the waistline. On the front side, place finishing lines of 0.5 cm (as shown in Fig. 139).

6. Baste and stitch the two parts of the front panel of the skirt along the relief line with a seam width of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast the sections, iron the seam onto the right half of the front panel, lay a finishing stitch on the front side 0.5 cm.


	You...You are simply divine! Thank you very much!

The construction of a strict straight type skirt is based on straight lines. The elementary cut of the product allows you to model it by modifying fragments of the finished pattern.

Using technical and artistic techniques, the basic model is transformed into a number of other varieties of skirts.

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Modeling Features

The correct fit of the base skirt becomes the main criterion for the possibility of its further modeling. The cutting base can be cut along any lines. In the drawing, it is important to maintain the width of the waist area and the length of the product.

Basic methods of constructive modeling

Transfer of darts.
Changing the location of construction lines.
Partial expansion of the product.
Creation of a fundamentally new configuration.

Before modeling a drawing of a skirt based on a straight line, it is necessary to separate the front and rear panels from each other. Work on them is carried out one by one. The main methods of modifying a straight style (tapering, varying the level of length) apply to specific types of skirts.

The simplest method of modifying a pattern is the formation of folds. They are created either on one of the panels or along the entire perimeter of the item.

A single fold on the product is made as a counter fold. It starts in the center of the front panel and is made up of two folds that have one side and are turned towards each other.

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Constructing a pattern

From the center of the drawing at waist level, set aside 0.5 cm to the left.
Reduce the opening of the dart located in the immediate vicinity of the new point by the same amount (0.5 cm). This will allow you to keep the width of the product at the waist unchanged.
Combine the resulting measurement with the lower straight line reaching to the bottom. This line will mark the fold of one of the folds. It is necessary to start the fold at the waist so that it is sufficiently adjacent to the base.
Along the line from which the dart comes, draw a segment to the right equal to half the allowance required to form the fold.

The folds on this model come from the center of the skirt and cover both panels. These elements are combined with darts at the top of the product.

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Constructing a pattern

Draw a vertical line through the center of the dart in the drawing, dividing the structure in two.
Transfer the pattern fragments to a clean sheet of paper.
Separate the parts of the cut along the cut, forming an allowance for the future fold. If the folds have one side, the width of the allowance should reach 10 cm. The counter type of folds needs a larger width of the allowance.
Trace the details according to the new contours.
Create a pleated fold. Connect the points on the waist line with the center marks of the product using segments ending at the bottom edge.
Create a central fold.
The allowance for it in a long product should be larger.

Skirt with one counter and two one-sided pleats

Determine the location of the front fold, marked parallel to the middle of the front of the model at a distance of 12 cm from the center.
Move the dart at the waist to the fold area. To the right and left sides at waist level, set aside half the amount of the tuck solution. Mark the length of the dart.
According to the marks made, cut the front part of the cut. At the top, cut the pattern on both sides of the future dart.
Directly on the fabric, move the middle of the construction 12 cm from the cut formed by the fabric, folded in half, in the direction of the grain thread. This is necessary to create a counter-type fold.
Open the cut of the front part of the product to create a fold on one side.
Reduce the fold depth at the bottom by 1.5 cm.

Yoke fit

Straight skirt models are complemented by detachable yoke belts of various configurations and sizes. Such belts can be too high or too low. When the yoke is significantly lowered, an undercut is formed - an element that structurally and decoratively changes the product.

Constructing a pattern

The dart passing through the lower edge of the yoke is closed and secured with a pin until processing is completed.
The yoke detail is first outlined. It may vary depending on the selected model. Afterwards it is cut off according to the marks.
If the yoke does not reach the end of the dart or is located under it, the dart should either be extended or made shorter.
In this case, the formation of folds is also performed on the lower part. The pattern is cut along the fold marks and spread according to the intended allowances.
The bottom of the model is expanded by cutting and spreading based on the style. Decorative flounces can replace folds.

Relief

The product can be divided into elements, which are sometimes supplemented with flounces. Such elements create a relief on the surface of the model, structurally complicating and decorating it.

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Constructing a pattern

Draw relief lines. The tuck along the axis is carried out vertically downwards.
Divide the base vertically, forming the required amount of relief of a certain width.
Connect the resulting marks with the solution of the existing darts.
Expand the canvas at the bottom. To do this, set aside about 3 cm on both sides.
Combine the resulting marks with the edge of the dart. You will get two skirt parts - side and front.
Provide the side part with pocket elements and shorten it at the bottom.
Draw vertical lines on the cut fragment and spread them apart to create a decorative assembly.

Straight cut and pleats

A model with an undercut, the top of which runs parallel to the waistline and is straight and is complemented by one-sided folds. The folded fragment comes out directly from under the cutting structure.

During cutting, the folded area is made in the form of a single fragment or made up of two parts. In both cases, the folds follow the inner pleated folds.

Half-sun wedges and rectangular undercuts

The style refers to the “gode” type model (with a sharp flare at the bottom). In the hem of the product, 4 cuts are made in the form of narrow rectangles. Wedge-shaped fragments, the configuration of which is called “half-sun,” are sewn into the trim pieces.

Figured assemblies

The silhouette of the product expands downward.

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Constructing a pattern

Provide the front panel of the drawing with the bottom lines of a curly-type yoke.
Apply similar contours to the back part, matching the side construction marks of both parts of the cut.
Cut the frills according to a straight line. The width of the parts should exceed the lower cutting part by 3 cm.
The frills are cut at a 45-degree angle to the warp threads. The width of the elements is 3 cm greater than the cutting parts of the bottom of the model.

During modeling, a straight-cut product is complemented by drapery on the sides, acquiring a more solemn look.

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Constructing a pattern

From the top edge of the drawing along the waist line, lay down a segment equal to the measurement of the width of the belt.
From the top of the dart, draw a straight line down to the place where the drapery will begin.
From the resulting point in the direction of the hip, draw a line marking the future undercut.
Mark the location of the cut for drapery.
Make similar changes to the cut of the back panel, making sure the side points are aligned.
There is no seam in the hip area on the drapery, since the parts will be one-piece. The presence of a seam on the side is possible in this case only if there is a high waistband.
Place the folds of the drapery with the folds facing up.
Sew the bottom of the drapery into the hem area.

Smell, hem and drape of the skirt

A straight silhouette item can be equipped with a folded front element and a clasp consisting of three buttons. In the fastener area there is an asymmetrical undercut and drapery placed underneath. The back of the pattern remains unchanged. The front panel is made up of two halves - a larger base and a smaller scent.

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Constructing a pattern

From the upper edge of the dart of the smaller half of the front, lower the perpendicular until it intersects with the bottom line.
Both front panels are rounded at the bottom.
Draw an undercut for the future yoke. Close the dart on the yoke detail.
Mark the contours for expanding the bottom. They will run parallel to the middle of the front. Cut the pattern from top to bottom, spreading it to the required width. You will get an assembly for the yoke belt detail.
On the drawing of the smaller front fragment, at the level of the darts, draw a straight line along which the right side of the product will be applied - that is, the smell. Align the new contour with the side.
Smoothly complete the side detail at the bottom.
Make a hem-type selection with a width of about 7 cm. Their shape corresponds to the configuration of the sides of both front panels of the pattern.
Cut out a belt detail up to 10 cm wide. The length of the belt is equal to the waist circumference with the addition of a few centimeters. The cut is made perpendicular to the main thread.

Smell and waist gather

The product is asymmetrical in the fastener area. The smell is located in the front. The assembly from the waist line is performed on a smaller panel. The bottom of the scent is formed by a smooth line. The back in this case remains unchanged.

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Constructing a pattern

From the center mark of the front part to the right, measure the amount of smell. It is recommended to use the future element to cover the dart of a larger part.
Draw a perpendicular from it towards the bottom. The bottom of the smaller panel is rounded.
Spread the cut using parallel lines that should pass relative to the central mark.
Cut the pattern from the top.
Extend the waist area by the required amount. This parameter depends on the density of the assembly, which is assumed by the style of the product. The dart automatically becomes part of the assembly.
In the area of the tuck of the wrapper detail, draw a straight line that will mark the location of the right side. He will have to close the dart. The bottom of the larger panel will remain straight.
Make a selection whose shape corresponds to the configuration of the smaller part of the model. The width of the part is about 7 cm. The hem of the second panel is made similar in width, stitched, equal in shape to the edges of the bead.
The product is complemented by a 10 cm wide belt. Its size must exceed the waist circumference.

Triangular yoke and counter pleat

Indicate on the drawing the location and size of the darts, leaving them unformed.
Determine the yoke marks.
Set aside 30 cm long segments from the outer marks downwards. Connect the new points to the upper outermost construction marks.
Move the edges of the darts to the yoke lines. Decorate the second side of the darts with a smooth outline.
Set aside 10 cm from the outer marks to the left and right sides. This will form the bottom of future folds.
Shape the upper sections in such a way that during processing they end up inside the seam for attaching the yoke.
In the area of the cutting belt, form a soft folded row. Extend the cut according to each of the marks by 4 cm.

Additional modeling options

The undercut can be used twice as a modeling element. Symmetrical trim fragments in the center of the product are supported by a fragment of counter-type folds.

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The symmetrical undercuts located at the bottom of the model can be extended by using the back of the item.
The pockets of the product are formed using undercuts. The waist area is provided with a soft pleated row.
The asymmetrical drapery, slightly offset from the center of the model, is tied with a wide ribbon or decorative buckle.

Despite its deep gray color, this skirt doesn't seem all that conservative. The skirt is given a special chic by the drapery on the side parts and the stitched belt with a plaque. To model a skirt pattern with drapery you will have to tinker, but the result is worth it! And sewn from light fabric, such a model could well become a summer one.

Rice. 1. Modeling the front and back halves of the skirt

Modeling of the drapery of the front half of the skirt is shown in Fig. 2. The drawing also shows the middle part and the yoke of the front panel.

To process the top section of the skirt, additionally draw and re-draw 4 cm wide.

Rice. 2. Modeling the drapery of the front half of the skirt

How to cut a draped skirt

To sew such a skirt, wool crepe, gabardine, as well as any skirt fabric that holds its shape well are suitable.

From wool crepe, cut out the parts shown in Fig. 3. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm, allowances at the bottom of the skirt are 4 cm. Dark-colored details are duplicated with interlining. Be sure to read our tips on different types of fabrics, as well as tips on working with pads.

Rice. 3. Pattern of a skirt with drapery - cut details

How to sew a draped skirt

Along the side parts of the front and back halves, lay auxiliary stitches in sections b-b, stitch length 4 mm. Gather the sections to the desired length and distribute them evenly on the sides.

Sew the yoke parts to the side parts of the front halves. Sew seam allowances together and press onto yokes.

Stitch the stitched waistband along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, sweep it clean, put on the plaque, insert the waistband between the marks a-a on the middle part of the front panel and baste it. Sew the draped pieces to the middle pieces of the front and back halves of the skirt.

Baste and stitch the side seams. Overcast and press seam allowances. Along the middle seam of the back half.

Overcast the facings of the front and back halves reinforced with thermal fabric along the lower sides, stitch along the side seams. Place the facings on the product, aligning it along the top edge of the skirt, and stitch along the waist seam. Fold the facings upward, iron them, stitch along the seam, stitching the allowances to the facings. Then fold it back onto the product and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper tape. Fold the facings to the wrong side, sweep clean and iron.

Fold the skirt seam allowance along the bottom to the wrong side and hem it with blind stitches.

Your skirt is ready. Wear it with pleasure and be happy!