Organza processing. Master Class

The tweed jacket, sewn using the original Chanel technique, is one of the iconic products that determined the development of fashion for an entire era. It organically combines modern materials and classic hand sewing techniques, which allows you to create a product endowed not only with uniqueness, but also with the incredible energy of the craftsman. If you are ready to touch the high art of the Chanel jacket, be prepared for the fact that a fascinating journey awaits you, in which time flows slowly and measuredly, in which there is no place for fuss and haste, and in which you will enjoy line by line, day after day process and get closer to your cherished goal - to become the owner of a unique jacket in the Chanel style.

The original sewing technique involves a lot of manual work and will require some patience and perseverance from you. However, the result will exceed all your expectations - you will receive a product that is incredibly light and comfortable, perfectly fitting and emphasizing the status of its owner.

In this master class we will tell you in detail how to sew a tweed jacket using the original Chanel technique. , as well as you will find in our previous lessons.

Advice! Detailed master class You will find instructions on sewing a jacket using the original Chanel technique in the new book by Anastasia Korfiati.

Before you start cutting and sewing the jacket, be sure to read the lesson, which describes in detail how to create a “pie” design for each part.

IMPORTANT! Since tweed, after cutting the parts, is very frayed at the edges, cut all the parts of the jacket with seam allowances of 2 - 2.5 cm, at the bottom - 6 cm. Cut out the lining parts with 1.5 cm seam allowances, cut out the lining parts with allowances of 1.5 cm. seams of 3 cm (when quilting, the fabric may shrink significantly).

As a lining, use organza that matches the color of your fabric. The gasket parts are connected to the main parts. Before performing hand stitching, you need to prepare the parts. Using contrasting tailor's chalk, transfer the contours to the paired parts and make all the necessary marks.

Rice. 1. Transfer the contours to paired parts

IMPORTANT! In the presented model, all the details of the product are duplicated with an organza lining, including the details of the back and sleeves. In some cases, only the front edges, neckline, and allowances at the bottom of the sleeves are duplicated with interlining.

Place a corresponding organza piece on the wrong side of each main fabric piece.

Rice. 2. Organza details

Baste the main parts and organza lining parts in pairs along the seam allowances using wide stitches (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Baste the main parts and the organza lining along the edges

On each piece, use contrasting tailor's chalk on the back side of the interlining (on organza) to mark the direction of the grain thread (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Marking the direction of the grain thread

Using wide oblique running stitches, connect the organza interlining to the main part (this temporary connection is necessary so that the parts do not move relative to each other when stitching the parts) (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Bias running stitches

To join the interfacing to the piece using hand quilting stitches, use fine quality thread, such as . Choose threads that match the base fabric.

IMPORTANT! In the master class, red threads are used solely for clarity. Connect the interfacing to the main fabric piece using quilting stitches.

Rice. 6. Quilting stitches

Start quilting the parts from the marked line (Fig. 6). Hand stitching is one of the most time-consuming processes, however, try to perform the stitching carefully and accurately, observing the direction of the grain thread (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Connecting the interfacing to the piece using quilting stitches

Our information.

Quilting stitches are used to connect several layers of parts - usually from the main and interlining fabrics, to obtain a part that holds its shape well and to give it a certain bend for a fit. The interlining fabric is stitched through, the main fabric is stitched through half the thickness. The quilting line should not be visible from the front side. In this case, oblique stitches are performed over the entire surface of the part. Stitch length 1.5 cm, width 0.7 cm, distance between lines 0.7 cm.

Place the lining fabric part with the wrong side on the wrong side of the quilted part, pin along the allowances and sweep (Fig. 8, 9).

Rice. 8. Place the lining piece on the main piece

Using wide oblique running stitches, connect the lining to the part (temporary connection) (Fig. 9).

Step back 5 cm from the side edges of the part and apply a vertical marking for the subsequent stitch, corresponding to the direction of the grain thread. The distance between the marking lines may vary slightly and range from 3 to 4 cm (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. Marking for lining stitching

Step back from the upper and lower contours of the part by 3 cm, and place transverse marks for the beginning and end of the lines (Fig. 11).

Rice. 11. Start and end marks of lines

Rice. 12. Fur stitch

The feather stitch allows you to create virtually invisible chains of stitches and is ideal for working with thin silk fabrics (such as the lining of a jacket). The distance between stitches as well as the length of the stitches is determined by the tailor. Another one like this hand stitch called "back needle". The top layer of fabric is pierced through, the bottom half.

Rice. 13. How to connect the lining to the part

Secure the threads at the ends of the stitching, bring the ends of the threads between the layers of lining and interlining and cut them (Fig. 14).

Rice. 14. Bring the ends of the threads between the layers and trim them

In Fig. Figure 15 shows parts quilted with contrasting threads (left part) and threads to match the lining (right part, on which the stitching is almost invisible). In a similar way, quilt all the details of the product.

Rice. 15. Quilted details with contrasting threads and threads to match the lining

Fold the lining seam allowance around the stitch towards the center of each piece and secure temporarily with pins (Figure 16).

Rice. 16. Bend the lining to the center of the part

Pin the parts of the product along the seams with pins (Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Pin together the details of the product according to the allowances

On sewing machine set the stitch length to 2.5 cm, machine stitch the parts of the product (Fig. 18).

Rice. 21. Iron seam allowances

To ensure that the allowances do not create volume and lie flat, baste the edges of the allowances to the product with stitches over the edge (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22. Sew allowances to the product by hand

In the next lesson. Even more original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity you will find on the website Anastasia Korfiati's Sewing School. Subscribe for free and be the first to receive new lessons!

By Marina Pankratieva 10/07/2016

Favorite elegant summer jacket made of white organza with pimples

Good afternoon I am with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna! Favorite elegant summer jacket made of white organza with a pimply pattern. Today I will show you and tell you how you can diversify your wardrobe with the help of such a jacket.

It is built using a 10-measurement cutting system and fits perfectly. female figure, it has the right tuck solution, the perfect sleeve. A simple urban outfit can be instantly transformed into a luxurious outfit with this jacket!

Your favorite elegant summer jacket made of white organza with a “bump” can be worn “to a feast, to the world, and to good people.” A jacket can always be used to create your own style, turning an ordinary wardrobe into an elegant one. An instant transformation from a casual look to a smart look occurs in a few seconds if you complement your main set with an elegant summer jacket made of white organza with a “pimply” pattern.

Of course, it's good to have such a jacket in your wardrobe. And it’s even better if you have not one, but several - different colors and textures. You don’t have to look for such a thing in stores and buy ready-made ones. This jacket is easy to sew with your own hands, quickly and simply.

This particular jacket goes with many things: an open dress, a sheath dress, trousers with a top, and a skirt with a top. bare shoulders, and to various things by color. It will diversify your wardrobe and look great. Such an organza jacket does not have to be made of organza of such a texture with a pimply puff or with grosgrain ribbon ties

organza with pimples

I love organza because you can always decorate yourself with it and I recommend everyone to fall in love with this fabric. And sew your own new universal outfits from it. Nowadays there is a boom in organza in the fashion world. Our clients are several recent years they place orders for sewing models from this fabric. Thanks to the manufacturers for providing us with organza of different textures, colors and quality. And there is an opportunity to sew beautiful outfits from it.

I wish you to be beautiful, fashionable, stylish and unique. I look forward to your comments, all the best to you, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna

Organza jacket will be a great addition to your image. Smart collection Sarafan Moscow
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In Moscow, 300 rub. 1-3 working days. By courier, for purchases up to RUR 7,000.
In the Russian Federation, Belarus, Kazakhstan, 700 rub. 2-7 days. Express delivery EMS Russian Post, for purchases up to 10,000 rubles.
In the Russian Federation, Belarus, Kazakhstan, 300 rubles. 7-35 days. Simple postal delivery for purchases up to RUR 7,000.

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